![\"\"](\"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/IMGP8788.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/IMGP8786.jpg\")
<\/a>The first step for installing the bottom wings is fabricate Wing Box J-Stifferners – Long by cutting a long piece of J-channel to the correct length. Draw a centerline mark, then insert the unfinished piece into the rib cavities and hang the skin.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" The quick build wings come with main spars, tanks, and upper skins prepared.\u00a0 The bottom skins, wiring, flap and aileron actuation, and pitot\/static systems remain to be installed. The first step for installing the bottom wings is fabricate Wing Box J-Stifferners – Long by cutting a long piece of J-channel to the correct length. Draw …<\/span> Continue Reading →<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[60],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2667","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-section-20-bottom-wing-skins"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2667","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2667"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2667\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2673,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2667\/revisions\/2673"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2667"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2667"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2667"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a><\/a>Next is #40 match drill the bottom skin with the J-channel pieces, aligning the center marks with the skin holes.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>Remove the skin to deburr both sides, then dimple for AN426AD3-3.5 rivets.\u00a0 Using the DRDT-2 dimpler greatly simplifies the task and produces very consistent results.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>Dimple the upper skin in preparation for attaching the flap and aileron gap fairings.\u00a0 I also decided to prime the gap area with PPG DP48LF white primer, as once closed this area will no longer be accessible. The wings will eventually be white in color.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a>Now dimple the gap fairings for the upper wing skin attachment.\u00a0 Initially a hand squeezer was used, but quickly I reverted to the DRDT-2 as much quicker and easier to use.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The inward facing side of the gap fairings were also primed.\u00a0 The photo right shows the primed inner surfaces and the flap gap stiffener riveted into place.<\/p>\n<\/a>This picture shows riveting the gap fairings onto the upper wing skins.<\/p>\n