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<\/a>The left photo shows the raw templates on the main roll.\u00a0 Before applying to the windows, an outline of each corner was traced on acetyl sheets.\u00a0 The reason for retaining this contour will be shown later…<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
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<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n TAPING DETAILS<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n OIL DOOR LATCH BUTTONS<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n MISCELLANEOUS<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n The main wiring bundles on left and right sides under the rear seat panels were laced together.\u00a0 In retrospect I would probably rearrange some of the wire runs for a cleaner look, but the final result is secure and will be serviceable as needed for future maintenance.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" The templates for masking the window transparencies have finally arrived.\u00a0 The Avery Dennision BriteLine+ vinyl sheets were custom cut by Moody Aerographics specifically for this purpose.\u00a0 I originally intended to mask off each window with just one vinyl piece, but matching the template profile on the curved surfaces with the exposed sticky adhesive proved too …<\/span> Continue Reading →<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[39,75,10,52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6627","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-custom-elements","category-interior","category-rv-10-build-project","category-section-45-cabin-doors-and-transparencies"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6627","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6627"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6627\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7260,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6627\/revisions\/7260"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6627"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6627"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rv10.mirimar.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6627"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a><\/a>The left lower windscreen corner was raw fit with epoxy resin and SuperFil before priming.\u00a0 The corner template mask was laid into the corner with about 1\/8″ – 1\/4″ offset from the underlaying canopy frame.\u00a0 This offset will present a clean edge visible from within the cockpit.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The smoothly cut template mask was covered with two layers of electrical tape.\u00a0 Each tape layer provided an additional 0.0063″ height for when the AlumiLite black dyed and glass bead infused West Marine two part epoxy resin was applied to the edge gap.\u00a0 The resin will then be sanded carefully from layer to layer to reach the final height of the template mask.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The same general taping process was then applied to doors and windows.\u00a0 The raw template mask in the corner was connected to other corners with red electrical tape.\u00a0 The bright colors for the final tape layer were used to enhance visibility while sanding.\u00a0 Notice the curved black electrical tape second layer.\u00a0 This shape was rough cut using the acetyl sheet contour described above. Cutting the electrical tape in this manner helps it stay flat, as compared with trying to bend the tape around a tight corner.<\/p>\n<\/a>Additional black electrical tape was applied above the straight sections, followed by general masking and one more layer of vinyl tape roughly laid around the perimeter.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>These photos show the before and after initial application of the dyed resin for the front left door.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>These photos show the rear left window progressing from taped outline, dyed resin applied, initial rough sanding, and final edge sanding.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The last sanding step levels the lowest tape layer with the resin material.\u00a0 Since this is only about .006″ thick, the care needed to not rub through to the Plexiglass window is extreme. It took quite some time to achieve this on the windscreen, doors and windows. The sanding outcome so far looks good, but application of the primer and paint will show whether the preparations were sufficient.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The issue of the push buttons for the oil door has finally been addressed.\u00a0 A #30 hole was drilled into the Camlock latch plate, then taped for a #6 screw.\u00a0 A mock-up of the final buttons (yet to be fabricated) are represented by the washers on the right.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The Delta drill press and a V-block were used to drill a 1\/2″ steel bar with a center hole.\u00a0 That hole was then taped for a #6 screw.\u00a0 The taped post held a piece of 1\/8″ aluminum flat bar for shaping.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The blank was hand filed and then sanded to exactly fit into each latch hole. The sides were slightly rounded to self-center the button when the latch springs back to the closed position.\u00a0 The final buttons were polished with 2000 grit sandpaper and fastened with #6 stainless screws. They will probably will be left as-is and not be painted, but that decision will be made later.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The original plans call for an AN3 bolt to hold the steps in their cradle.\u00a0 I wanted a stronger connection, so the steps and the cradles were drilled and reemed to 1\/4″ to hold thicker AN4 bolts. (NAS-<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The door alarm reed switches were connected to the main electrical bundle via DSUB connectors.\u00a0 They are held together with heat shrink, then laced into place.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>The control sticks were cut to length to provide the maximum height without touching the instrument panel or switches.<\/p>\n