Category Archives: Workshop Prep

New Workshop and Tools

Over the first two weeks in 2015 Rich came from Texas with a Trooper full of wonderful old tools.  The crown jewels included a Delta-Rockwell 28-207 bandsaw (based on a model 890 and made in Tupelo, MS in 1953), a Delta 17-900 drill press, belt sander, grinder, scroll saw, and numerous drill vises, clamps, and jigs.  We spend most of the two weeks dis-assembling, cleaning, lubricating, and reconfiguring.  Here are a series of photos showing the work in the new shop location.

IMGP4896The old rubber tires looked near original.  Nice, but not very effective these days.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4906IMGP4924Between Rich and I we acquired numerous rebuild parts. Most of them came from Iturra Design.  It is quite interesting that almost all the parts (besides the cast iron pieces) can be had new for this machine.

 

 

IMGP4897IMGP4900Removing, cleaning, and putting new tires on the wheels.

 

 

 

 

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IMGP4911IMGP4960New ceramic, from a company literally called SpaceAge Technology).

 

 

 

 

IMGP4907IMGP4917After using the bandsaw a few times, I went ahead with ordering replacement bearings, shims,  and some additional parts.  Started the rebuild process again.

 

 

 

IMGP4961IMGP4951Remove the table and dis-assemble the adjustment mechanism.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4965IMGP4975Clean and reassemble the table adjustment mechanisms.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4982Table and saw blade reinstalled.  Notice the new cranks and bolts on the trunnions, courtesy of Rich.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4970IMGP4971Remove the old bearings. Note the retaining clips on the upper wheel.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4966Lower bearing installed on drive side.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4967IMGP4969Lower bearing on wheel side partially, then fully installed.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4976 IMGP4980Here is the new wheel brush installed on the lower guard.  I replaced the 39″ v-belt with one 35″ long.  Why – because there was absolutely no tension adjustment with the longer belt – the motor rested directly on the mounting plate.  I used 3/8″ x 4″ bolts to elevate the motor slightly and used multiple nuts for final height/tension adjustment.  This configuration seems to work well.

 

IMGP4995IMGP4996Q-bond was used to repair the original bakelite light shade. This completes the refurbishment process for the time being. With the cleaning, new parts and bearings, the saw runs very smoothly.

 

 

 

DRILL PRESS

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We measured the runout on this machine at less than 0.001″ of an inch right off his truck. Outstanding!  I will replace belts, a few missing set screws, a broken belt-tensioning eccentric lever, and fix the table adjusting crank, but overall the machine works great.  The photos above show it in action on some tail section bulkheads, and Rich using a Forstner bit to make some ‘furniture-quality’ floor stands.

 

SECOND REBUILD

IMG_0016cAfter receiving the parts, I proceeded to drill out the broken bolt on the table adjusting crank.  The over-sized hole was then tapped for a M10 metric bolt.  This arrangement seems to work well.

 

 

 

IMGP4998IMGP5005The top pulleys and belt housing were removed to clean the motor adjustment pins.  After a good greasing, these were reinstall on the cast iron head. A replacement power switch faceplate is added after the wiring is put back in place.

 

 

IMGP5017IMGP5007Final adjustments to the faceplate and ready for power on.

 

 

 

 

IMG_0025I broke the original retaining bolt off during the initial cleanup.  After repeated attempts to back out the broken bolt shaft, I finally purchased a left-handed cobalt drill.  This worked well, but the bolt did not back out on its own.  Tapping the final hole with an M10-1.5 set I had from Germany, then filling with an appropriate metric set screw did the trick.

 

 

IMG_0018IMG_0019The addition of a Peachtree PW929 drill press laser for $40 rounds out the second rebuild.

 

 

 

 

IMG_0020The laser functions on the principle that two intersecting planes form a straight line.  By adjusting the two laser heads vertically with the spindle shaft and correcting for angle should provide a clear cross indicator for a drill center at any depth.  Very cool on the science side, plus it makes positioning your drill piece extremely fast and easy. I would say this is good value for the price. We’ll see how robust it is as time goes by.

 

 

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VISE and SANDER (January 31, 2015)

IMGP4984I bought an old Wilton 4″ vise on Craigslist for $25 a few weeks ago.  As show here, the jaw inserts were missing, with the broken fastening screws left in the faces.  A 5/32″ left-handed, cobalt was used to drill them out.  Fortunately all four screws backed out on their own during the drillout process.  Luck will beat skill most times!

 

 

IMGP4988IMGP4989Here is the vise after cleaning and greasing.  I will mount on a 2″x8″ board, and should be able to clamp down to the bench surfaces as needed. Replacements faces are on order, so it should work good as new.

 

 

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(February 7) I used 1/4″ lag screws to fasten to the board.  Overall result – rock solid.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4994Rich built another quality base for the Craftsman sander and grinder he brought from Texas.  Here both are shown mounted on the base.  The sander was cleaned and new 5″ disc / 1″ x 15″ belt were added.

 

 

 

WORKBENCH BASE

Custom base now brings all the bench surfaces to a uniform 36-3/4″ above the floor.  This is the same height for my EAA benches, and the DRDT-2 dimpling machine.

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Tools

Many speciality tools are needed to fabricate a kit airplance.  I spent years researching the subject and still did not have enough information to get it right the first time.  However, my first bulk purchase went to Cleaveland Tools in Ames, IA for their RV10 starter package.

IMGP3271Here is the original packing list.  Eric and I did a full inventory on the first shipment, only found one issue needing correction.  Some tools were back-ordered, but otherwise responses from Annette from Cleaveland have always been immediate, friendly, and helpful.

 

 

 

IMGP3259IMGP3262This package was slightly under $3000, but I have subsequently gone over that number as the work has progressed. However, I can confirm what every builder already knows – you can never have too many tools!

 

 

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Benches

One basis for a good shop is having solid workbenches.  Years of experience and recommendations from knowledgeable folks led me to using EAA Chapter 1000 plans for the benches. I wanted multiple smaller units rather than on a big, single table to allow flexibility in configuration due to the cramped space in the bonus room, but still have the ability to clamp then together to form a longer surface.  The EAA plans were ideal for this and good documentation was available for wood specifications and cutting plans.  I did want the top surfaces to be 36″ off the ground, because of comfort for my own height (shorter would cause me to bend over slightly for everything).  I slurged cost-wise to buy clear Douglas Fir 2×4 and 3/4″ plywood from a speciality lumber company in Raleigh. The cost of the wood was about $500, which I know is quite expensive.  The final outcomes, however, justified the cost.  At least in my mind. 

IMGP3123Rich came for an initial visit to help with building the benches. He had used the EAA plans on a previous project and had insights on construction techniques.

 

 

 

IMGP3124The benches are basically built from the upper surface down to the legs.  This allows each level/stage to be accurately references against the final desired height.

 

 

 

IMGP3131The main posts have been installed, now for the first reinforcement pieces down to the second level shelves.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3164Everything gets screwed and glued into place.  Using clear, straight wood is a Godsend for accurate building.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3169More jigging and clamping for straight results.

 

 

 

 

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More assembly…

 

 

 

 

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 The slight overhang of the surfaces are routed flush with the side rails, then sanded ready for polyurethane coating.

 

 

 

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Benches are not supposed to be constructed as finely as furniture, but I decided to add moulding strips anyway.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3203Here is a close-up of the top surface edged with 1″ moulding. This is probably overkill, but the results are nice.

 

 

 

 

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The work surfaces are sealed with two coats of MinWax polyurethane to keep down any absorption of fluid and splinter reduction.

 

 

 

IMGP3252The final benches are nice, straight, perfectly aligned, and level.  Great start to the project.  Thanks to Rich and the kids for all their help.