Category Archives: Section 06, Vertical Stabilizer

VS Attach and Misc.

Much of the finalized assembly was not photographed in-progress, as fabrication of the parts was generally covered in previous posts.  Plus I really wanted to get done without taking further time on the website. A greater reliance on video content was made as the build headed for completion.

VERTICAL STABILIZER

Here the vertical stabilizer was being attached to the empennage – hopefully for the last time.

 

 

 

 

I made this custom NAV antenna bracket many moons ago. In retrospect, I would probably forgo this bracket and mount the antenna directly under the fuselage.

 

 

 

Anyway – here was the final connection and covering by the VS cap.

 

 

 

 

The left photo shows the Suntail Strobe/Nav wiring exit between the rear fuselage and the rudder bottom.  On the right is the original elevator stop replaced with a much heavier and larger alternate means to comply with Service Bulletin SB18-03-30 from Vans. This modification prevents over-rotation of UP elevator.

 

 

Following attachment of the rudder bottom, intersection fairings around the VS and HS were installed. Thin rubber edging protects the HS paint from the elevator trim covering. Note the elevator horn to elevator push rod assembly in the upper right of the first photo.

 

 

 

This photo shows a taut line extending from the main wheels at ground level to the rear tie down point.  This confirms the COM1 antenna will not scrape on the runway during takeoffs or landings.

 

 

 

 

BATTERY BOXES

The Odessey 680 batteries were secured with a Delrin-like polymer frame with a felt underlayment for protection.  Here are the components before assembly.

 

 

 

The final configurations of the battery boxes, Artex 1000 ELT, and the Garmin GTX45R transponder/ADSB behind the baggage bulkhead is show here.

 

 

 

VS Assembly

Another power weekend with Rich and the vertical stabilizer is assembled! After months of metal preparation, logistics and practice on sacrificial mini-projects, the big day for actually setting rivets in plane parts was upon me.  In the lead up week, my technical counselor (Terry Gardner) came by to evaluate progress and provide final tips.  With a bit of trepidation and rivet gun in hand, it was time to pucker and pull the trigger…

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Thursday evening the VS spar was assembled.  The spar, spar caps, doublers, and rudder hinges were all squeezed. No worries here and the results were good.

 

 

 

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No drill outs or smileys on the final spar assemblies.

 

 

 

 

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Rich and I made extensive use of a Van’s mini-wing project to practice the rivet/bucking techniques needed for most of the work on skins.  Good thing too, because our initial efforts were miserable.  The greatest damage was done when the tungsten bucking bar slid off the rivet, pounding the h*** out of the skin from the inside.  Many adjustments to the air pressure at the rivet gun were also needed to get things into a calmer, but effective range.

 

 

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I took a day off work to take advantage of Rich’s final days on his visit from Texas. This picture shows the parts staged on Friday morning for both vertical stabilizer and the rudder. The plan was squeeze, back rivet, then buck as many parts in that order.  First priority was completing the VS over the weekend, nice to have the rudder done if possible.

 

 

 

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Back riveting the rudder skins.  This was obviously not part of the VS build, but I wanted to save bucking activities until last.

 

 

 

 

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Again no problem.  The back rivet results are all good.

 

 

 

 

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Here is the final assembly of the static wick nut plates.

 

 

 

 

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Staging the VS frame for squeezing.

 

 

 

 

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Notice the flexible conduit running through the forward rib lightning holes.  My custom rib doubler and the lightning hole wire ties for holding the conduit worked like a charm.

 

 

 

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Okay, here is where a serious case of nerves set in!  Our first ‘production’ bucking experience was on the middle nose ribs.  I had to reach a full arm length into the skin cavity to hold the 1.7lb tungsten bucking bar up against an AN426AD3-3.5 rivet.  Other builders have seriously disfigured the skins in this section; this being one of the most difficult assignments on the whole plane build right at the beginning.  At this point I was very anxious and the pucker-factor quite large.

 

 

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This picture is fuzzy, but does show the finished rivets on the middle nose ribs.  I had to go through some contortions, but eventually was able to see the rivet/bar with a flashlight during the bucking operation. Seeing the rivet shank and not being blind made all the difference.  Added to this, Rich did excellent work driving the rivets with a steady hand and consistent manner.  I was quite pleased with the resulting shop heads.

 

 

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Finishing up the lower spar and spar cap squeezes.  The overall assembly process went slower than expected, but we were very deliberable on purpose.

 

 

 

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Final result on the lower part of spar. We used a 1.5″ diameter mushroom rivet set with a rubber apron for the skins.  The rubber apron kept the rivet set from bouncing sideways and cushioned the impact to some degree.

 

 

 

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Final result on the upper part of spar.  We made sure to use rivet tape on every single flush rivet. This small, but important step keeps the head from crushing off all corrosion protection on the rivet set or die, but also prevents the skins from getting scratched.

 

 

 

IMGP4021Saturday evening saw happy campers and great results! In the end we only had to drill out 3 rivets. Interestingly enough all three of these were squeezed. No smileys or dents in the smooth skin surface are also testimony to careful planning and solid execution. Who would have thunk it given my previous concerns about bucking.

I could not have achieved this excellent outcome without Rich’s help.

First Contact

Another power weekend finally saw the first parts riveted together!

IMGP3927On Saturday Rich helped me apply PreKote to the skins with a light scuffing with grey Scotchbrite.  The process is simple – apply, scrub, rinse thoroughly, hang to dry.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3965The treated rudder skins are hanging from the dryer racks in the shed.  The were left overnight to dry with a space heater and a 1000watt floodlight on to combat the near freezing temperatures.  With all the devices running, the shed maintained a comfy 23 degree Celsius.

 

 

 

IMGP3967On Sunday after lunch I got suited up and ready to spray.  Each time the process of preparation gets a bit smoother.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3968Back in the bonus room with my first two parts to rivet in hand.  Because these were not part of the Van’s build plans, I started with my custom-made doubler for the upper VS rib. Note all the primed VS and rudder parts on the drying racks in the background.

 

 

 

IMGP3970First contact! but also brought first mistakes.  The first set of squeezed rivets went so well, I overzealously put a rivet in the lower right drilled hole.  The three in this row are supposed to attach to the forward VS spar.  Okay, so used the rivet removal tool for extraction.

 

 

 

IMGP3972Just to prove I can make more mistakes, here is a closeup of the final rib combination. Close examination shows the forward nut plate rivets are slightly bent inward.  I was using the Main Squeeze tool properly, but with driving bits too short.  This caused the C-yoke to contact the nut body at the end of the squeeze, forcing the small angle on the rivet.  By using taller driving bits on the second nut plate, I got full clearance on the nut body – thus no contact, no angle and a resulting smooth surface.

 

 

IMGP3971Had only the nut plate been slightly bent, I would have drilled out and replaced it.  However, the doubler was also impacted and further rework would probably have done more harm than good.  This is one of those occasions where the outcome is fully functional, but not esthetically perfect in the eyes of the builder.

Overall this was a great learning experience, and hopefully the beginning of a constantly improving build process.

Breaking Bad

This was a power weekend – alodine and priming my first set of plane parts with expert assistance from Rich.

IMGP3864Here we are finishing the air handling system for the shed.

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3866Getting staged for mixing brightener – dilute phosphoric acid with brand name PPG DX533 (one part to three parts distilled water).

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3873The actual mixing process occurred in the shed to keep any fumes or spills out of the house.

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3887Here Rich and I are posing in front of the treated parts, first dunked in the brightener solution and rinsed with water.  The drying racks just hold the pieces before the alodine process, no real need to have them bone dry at this point.

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3892One of the VS spars goes into the alodine solution in the dunk tank.  The first pieces in the fresh solution for 2 minutes turned very dark, so the immersion time was adjusted to get a more golden color. Everything was hung overnight with a space heater on for complete drying.  This is necessary before the priming steps.

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3896Suited up and shaking the PPG DF40LF grey-green primer.  I only got a quart, which turned out to be way more than needed for this batch of parts.

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3900Using a graduated measuring cup marked for 2:1 primer to catalyst.

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3908Ready, aim, fire.

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3914Rich took this picture through the shed window showing primer actually being applied to some parts.

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP3916Why the grin?

VS Metal Prep & Logisitics

Spent time this week preparing for the big two week building push expected during Rich’s visit in early March.  I fabricated a pair of drying racks from 1×1″ pine boards using medium eyelets to hold hooks made from 14/3 electrical wire. This combination was cheap and seems to work fine.  Also scuffed the non-skin components of the VS and rudder.

IMGP3853Here all the parts are staged prior to scuffing.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3854Used the spare bathroom and a doggie shower attachment to scuff with maroon Scotchbrite and green Dawn dish washing soap.  This action also took off the major grease and grime from earlier processing steps.  This is a porcelain tub, so a rubber bath mat cushions the parts in this picture.

 

 

 

IMGP3856All the parts are scuffed, cleaned and are hanging on the new drying racks.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3860I manufactured a fake window box for the dual fan setup in a few hours with cheap 2×6 pine boards. The fan is supposed to move 1420 cfm, the whole shed is 800 cubic feet.  If all goes as planned, a complete air turnover will happen twice a minute – not bad for a home paint booth.

VS Upper Rib Doubler

I spent some time this week going back to major parts of the vertical stabilizer and rudder to smooth the edges much better than my original efforts. Last week my technical advisor had shown me how edges should look. In retrospect a rather poor job had been done on final rounding my parts with the Scotchbrite wheel.  Fortunately, none of these parts have been riveted together.  The results now look much better.

The other activity this week was fabricating a rib doubler for the uppermost rib on the vertical stabilizer.  I want to use 3/4″ plastic conduit obtained from Van’s to feed wire for either a VOR antenna, an anti-collision LED beacon, or both to the top of VS.  The conduit can be held in-place with the appropriate sized hole drilled with a unibit.  However this would weaken the spar web, so a doubler is needed.  In addition, I wanted to use the #10 screw nut plate trick, ala the bonding straps, to allow for later installation of any electrical equipment.

IMGP3837A scrap piece of sheet aluminum is measured out for the rib doubler.  This picture shows the position of the nut plates, the unibit to be used for the 3/4″ hole and a practice piece of plastic conduit.

 

 

 

IMGP3842Here is the doubler rough cut for  insertion into the upper VS rib.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3849On the left is the fabricated doubler with all the holes drilled and deburred.  I countersank the nut plate lobe holes for flush riveting with an ‘oops’ rivet.  I wanted this to be flush for flexibility of later installations.

On the right is a practice piece with the plastic conduit inserted into the 3/4″ hole.  As can be see here, the conduit has alternating bands of 3/4″ and 7/8″ diameter sections.  This will allow the conduit to be threaded through the unibit hole and self-attach to the rib doubler. Nice and neat.

The lower VS ribs do not need this treatment, as special Panduit wire ties will be attached to the already present lightning holes.

VS Metalwork Complete

 

This week all the preparation metal work leading up to alodine processing has been completed. This means corrosion prep, priming, and final assembly with riveting remain, but at least all the fitting, match drilling, deburring, dimpling and countersinking operations are done.  From the build plans Sections 6-1 through 6-4.5 have been signed off.

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VS Skins

The first use of the DRDT-2 dimpling device was on the vertical stabilizer skins. 

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A spare tablesaw base with 2×4″  mounts was adjusted so the height of the C-frame bottom was level with the top of my EAA-1000 workbenches.

 

 

 

IMGP3583Laying  a 5/8inch sheet of MDF on the bench top provides a seamless surface to the DRDT-2.  This picture shows the MDF will support the skin exactly level with the male die for the dimpling operation. 

 

 

 

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This setup allowed us to dimple with the skin resting on the bench top (saved me from building a special platform just for the DRDT-2 for this purpose).  The process went quickly and the results were excellent. When properly setup, the DRDT-2 will produce a uniform dimple every time.

 

 

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Repair Rudder Stops

In Section 6 the rudder stops are supposed to be fitted and match drilled against the upper of the bottom hinge brackets.  I was about to post a picture of this activity when I noticed the lower bracket was showing in the picture.  As a result, I went back today to correct back to the appropriate configuration (upper of the two brackets).

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