Category Archives: Prime/paint

Final Paint

The airplane has been flying about 8 months with over 90 hours accumulated during the Phase 2 period.  My scheduled slot has now come due, so N190XB was off to the shop for final painting to include Sapphire Blue upper section and Pharoahs Gold accent striping.

Chemical Strip

 

 

 

 

Metal prep and alodine application…

 

 

 

 

PPG primer applied…

 

 

 

 

Base coat of PPG Snow White applied…

 

 

 

 

Elevator and wingtip masking stripe layouts…

 

 

 

 

Wheel pant and fuselage masking stripe layouts…

 

 

 

 

Rudder, elevators and pants masks for gold accent application…

 

 

 

 

Fuselage masked for gold accent stripe application…

 

 

 

 

After gold accents, then upper fuselage blue…

 

 

 

 

Initial reveal after masks removed…

 

 

 

 

After control surfaces installed.  The plane was then ferried back to home base for installation of the wheels pants.

 

 

 

 

Assembly complete, ready for the next flights…

 

 

 

 

The day following final assembly was beautiful, just perfect to refresh my instrument rating to get current again.  Now the real flying can begin in earnest.

 

 

 

 

MISC

Color match card and 3M buffing compound (for windshield cleanup and repair).

 

 

 

 

Interior Panels

Now that the airplane has been moved to the airport and wings attached, final painting and installations can proceed.

Interior panels from Aerosport Products were primed with PPG DP48LF white primer.  Later the panels were painted PPG Concept Boeing Grey.

 

 

 

The foam backed, fabric material was glued into place on the Aerosport headliner with contact cement by professional auto specialists. (Don’t ask why I did not do this myself). The backing fiberglass was then fitted with Velcro strips and attached to corresponding strips on the canopy.

 

 

More views of the overhead console and installed headliner..

 

 

 

 

The left photo shows fitting the map pockets on the forward interior panels prior to prime/paint.  The right photo shows the baggage bulkhead after painting.

 

 

 

A Blue Seas power outlet was fitted onto the baggage bulkhead.  A 10A fuse and toggle switch for directing trickle charge power to either PRI or SEC battery were installed with switch guards.  This outlet is not intended for ever jump starting the aircraft.  The required EXPERIMENTAL decal was installed on the upper bulkhead cover.

 

The lower bulkhead cover was fitted with UHDP wear blocks for the rear shoulder harness cables.  The right picture shows a rear interior panel with the air vent cover installed.

 

 

Preparation of the Aerosport dashboard cover included installation of covers for the panel fan outlets and trimming the edges for fit.  After trim, I used my fledgling sewing skills to dress the edges against fraying.

 

 

The center console and control stick wiring was completed and tested.  Labelling of the jack ports was with a Brother P-touch. I would have preferred a laser etched alternative, but maybe than can be a future project.

 

 

 

The dashboard cover was secured with 1″ and 2″ Velcro strips.

 

 

 

 

Final dashboard cover, center console and control sticks installed…

 

 

 

 

Front and rear footwell carpet…

 

 

 

 

Rear seat and baggage compartment carpet…

Wing Attachment (2)

The same day as ‘the big move’, we attached the wings with provisional fasteners, then began work fitting the wing root fairings.

Following the Van’s instructions, the wings were first pinned into place with drift pins and hardware store 3/8″ bolts. These bolts have much looser tolerances (~.010 “) as compared to the high precision NAS1309-58 and NAS1306-58 bolts called for final insertions (done at a later date).

 

 

Both wings were provisionally attached with just a few main bolts. Thanks to Eric, Peter and Aaron for help during the wing transport and attachment activities.

 

 

 

The wing root fairings were trimmed to match the contour of the fuselage. This left about a 3/16″ gap between the fairing and fuselage. This gap will be filled with black rubber edge molding as some vibration and flexing of the wing will be expected during flight.  On the right stiffeners, upon which people will stand when entering the cabin, are clecoed then riveted onto the upper fairing panels.

 

The inner sides of the fairings were scuffed, washed and then sprayed with SEM Self-etching primer (grey 39683). The outer sides were scuffed, treated with Prekote, then primed with DesoPrime followed by application of Snow White Desothane CA8800 paint. Wheel pants and fairings were painted at the same time.

Wing Attachment (1) (Paint)

Painting the wings required about three weeks of preparation, surface treatment, and priming prior to paint application.

Custom wing rotisseries were created by Terry G. specifically for RV wings.  I created some special attach plates to directly accommodate the RV10 wing bolt patterns. Here the wings are mounted, scuffed with maroon Scotchbrite pads, and treated with Prekote before priming with DesoPrime Grey.

 

 

Prior to scuffing the wings I fitted the outboard side of the wing root fairings, but made a mistake by dimpling one of the nutplate holes in the wrong location. The nutplate still went on fine, but did not align perfectly with the pre-drilled holes in the Vans cover piece.  In the long term this is not a big issue, especially since this area will be covered by wing walk material anyway.  However, it was aggravating not to have paid close enough attention to the plans.

 

Fastener holes for the flaps and ailerons are filled with ear plugs or electrical tape to prevent covering with primer or paint.

 

 

 

After initial prime and paint a few runs and poor coverage were discovered.  As a result the wings were wet sanded with 600 grit, then repainted.  The final results were very good.

 

 

 

Here the wings were ready for the move to the airport.  They had been painted 2 weeks before and were allowed to cure completely before being taken on the highway.

 

 

 

HS RESPRAY

The original quality of the HS tip bulkhead paint did not meet expectations.  So while there was extra paint available from repeat covering the wings, I decided to redo the ends.  Here the ends are shown sanded and ready for another coat of primer and paint.

Spinner and Cowling (2)

More fitting and body work has been associated with the upper and lower cowling. The sequence I used for painting the cowl parts:  cut and fit the cowl as needed, sand/putty for initial prime, attach hinges and fasteners, Smooth Prime, sand/spot putty, prime again, scuff with Maroon scotchbrite, and final paint.  Splitting the lower cowl before final prime to accommodate a three-bladed prop was a difficult process.

Fitting the lower cowl bracket and bending the air outlet louvers were the beginning final cowl preparations.

 

 

 

 

Holes for the Skybolt camlocks were drilled with a Unibit into the lower cowl where the air scoop will attach.

 

 

 

 

Superfil was applied to the air inlet ramps of the upper cowl for smooth airflow into the engine compartment.

 

 

 

 

Sanding the air inlet ramp and application of resin/glass bubbles to secure the Rod Bower scoop inlet piece were also done.

 

 

 

Drilling for the nose connection screws and aft pin retention block were completed on the upper cowl before the final separation.

 

 

 

Fishing line (hard to see in the left photo) provide a trace line for the center cowl center. The lower cowl was held together with a forward custom retaining piece while a curf-less saw started the cowl splitting process from the aft side.

 

 

 

Further splitting of the lower cowl continued with the scoop installed until full separation was achieved. The split process was nerve racking, but seems to have been successful.

 

 

 

On the left, the lower split cowl near the aft section is shown held together with a custom retaining piece. On the right, the side hinges were then riveted using a pneumatic squeezer.

 

 

 

Side piano hinges are shown with intermediate and final rivets.

 

 

 

 

A thin layer of West System resin and colloidal silica was spread to the upper side hinge rivet lines.  After 24 hours of cure time, the layers were sanded smooth before Smooth Prime was applied.  Another round of sanding in preparation of the final prime coating.

 

 

Here the rivet lines on the firewall hinges for the upper cowl are filled, then sanded smooth.

 

 

 

 

After the first coat of primer was applied, some body work or spot putty was needed in some locations. Those areas were then sanded smooth for another round of priming.

 

 

 

After the initial prime, Skybolt fasteners were applied to the lower cowl halves and the lower firewall brackets.  All the parts were then sanded again and reprimed.

 

 

 

Final prime on cowl parts.

 

 

 

 

Fitting the Aerosport side cowl pin retention blocks and the Skybolt Camlock pins were the last steps before final paint was applied.

 

 

 

MISCELLANENOUS

The flaps were the first set of completed parts transported from the workshop to the airport for staging in the final assembly operations.

 

 

 

Oil lines were covered with firesleeve, then run from the engine mounted adapter to the remote oil filter on the firewall.

 

Cowl Baffling (1) and Miscellaneous Items

Preparation of the cowl baffling proceeded in parallel with the initial cowling work.  I was essentially trying to optimize parallel work time utilization – while the resin dried on the cowls, progress was made on the  baffles.

Back riveting on the forward air dam material is shown on the left.  Rough fitting the air dams is shown on the right.

 

 

 

 

The Vans plans call for fixed height, riveted deflectors in front of the #1 and #2 cylinders.  Experience from other builders indicated these may need trimming to optimize airflow inside the upper cowl chamber.  I elected to install #8 nutplates instead of rivets to allow easy removal of these parts for trimming or total replacement of these as needed.

 

 

Here the famous “paper clip method” was used to establish a 3/8″ gap between the solid air dam sides and the upper cowl surface. The trim lines are the final dimensions of the metal side plates.

 

 

 

Because the metal sides were so thin above the #1 and #3 cylinders, reinforcing backing plates were fabricated out of .032″ sheet aluminum to provide so additional strength.

 

 

 

The cylinder profile was created on construction paper to get a general outline. Then McFarlane air dam material was measured and cut.  Pliobond adhesive was applied and spring clamps used to press for curing.  This process did not produce great results, as the McFarlane material seems to have a siliconized coating to reduce friction against the inner cowl surface.  Probably great for this purpose, but not helpful when attempting to bond with other materials.

 

The inner side of the McFarlane dam material appears to be some form of rubber, while the outer side is smooth and laser etched to help conform bend to shape.

 

 

 

The rear baffle panel was backriveted into place.  Now that rivets have been applied, removing the combined pieces from around the motor mounts will be quite difficult.  It was a tight fit beforhand getting the separate parts located around the cylinders and over the mounts.

 

 

To finish the back baffle panel a hole for the propeller governor cable needed to be drilled. This required the final configuration of the cable mounting bracket to the prop governor.  Notice how the #3 cylinder fuel injection line is configured to clear the bracket and cable.

 

 

The side panels for #5 and #6 cylinders have access ports to allow socket wrench insertion for spark plug maintenance.  These holes are covered during normal operations with removable components to prevent air loss during flight.

 

 

Side gussets were custom formed for the front baffle plates, then riveted into place.

 

 

 

 

The left front baffle was drilled and opened for one of the heater induction air ports.

 

 

 

 

The front heater induction port has a meshed screen installed, then rivet into place.  At right, transitions between the upper and lower cowl faces were applied for a smooth surface.

 

 

 

Before fitting a special baffle around the prop governor, the simple gasket was replaced with one have a filter screen.  Fitting the special baffle over the prop governor should help with air loss.

 

 

 

The forward baffle seals were created with the default Vans material.  On the right the distance between the prop governor and the upper cowl was measured with a piece of modeling clay.

 

 

 

This photo shows the final baffle seals around the prop governor.

 

 

 

 

The right front baffle before and after the seals are pop riveted into place.

 

 

 

 

Seals were measured, cut, and Pliobond for the lower cowl air inlets from the default Vans material.

 

 

 

 

Final fitting of the Aerosport pin retention blocks and applying resin/glass bubbles around the edges.

 

 

 

 

Here the pin templates are shown from the interior space after raw application of just the resin/glass mixture.  At right is the final configuration with four layers of 6oz fiberglass applied.

 

 

 

Aluminum backer plates were fabricated for inside the pin block cavity.  The plans did not call for these, but I wanted additional rigidity for this area. The plates were relieved in the middle for access to the side piano hinges.

 

 

The side fiberglass was also relieved to match the backer plates, then clecoed in place for a final coating of Superfil to create smooth edges.  At right a kerfless saw separated the two cowl halves which had been joined by the pin retention cavity build process.

 

 

 

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

More parts were painted base white…

 

 

 

 

Headliner base repairs and new grounding straps…

 

 

 

 

Firesleeve dip for untreated oil and fuel lines…

 

 

 

 

Band-It Jr hose clamps and rescue tape wrappings for final line application (homemade firesleeve solution).

 

 

 

 

Custom mounting bracket for Matco glass brake fluid reservoir and custom brackets for under-seat line security (fuel, brake, control stick wires)…

 

 

 

Prime / Paint (3) and Landing Gear

The last eight weeks or so have been all about preparing for the initial base coat of paint on the fuselage.  This includes sand, prime, sand, fill, prime, sand, sand, sand…   and more sand to get the Desoprime surface ready.  The prepped surface was scuffed with maroon Scotchbrite and/or 320 grit paper as indicated in the PPG specifications.

The door windows had some small gaps between the fiberglass frame, the Lord adhesive bonding agent, and the actual plexiglass/Lexan (not sure which) panes.  These gaps were filled with dye blackened resin infused with glass beads. The cured gaps were then sanded, masked and painted in the same interior Boeing 707 Grey as the rest of the interior.

 

 

The fairing between the upper fuselage and the windscreen was carefully sanded smooth for a nice transition. I spent much time working on this, as from esthetic perspectives this location is generally a focal point of bystander attention.  The fiberglass fairing was sanded, primed, filled, sanded and primed again three times in an effort to get this right.

 

 

Even the three prep cycles did not remove all the pinholes and spots in the primer surface.  In a few locations spot putty was used to fill small voids.  These were airbrushed with primer for coverage before paint was applied.

 

 

 

Curiosity over how the N numbers would cover the tailcone side wall got the better of me.  Here 12″ high sheets simulate the space taken across the panel.

 

 

 

LANDING GEAR

With the body work mostly complete on the stable trolley, it was finally time to mount the fuselage on the landing gear. Custom spar extensions were used to elevate the fuselage to provide clearance for inserting the main gear struts.  These are very sturdy and heavy steel legs with machined attach points which must slide into the gear brackets. The original fits were not good, requiring hours of sanding/fitting to get the struts into proper alignment.

Here the jack stand hold the primary weight of the fuselage, the trolley only serves as a safety block should hydraulic pressure be lost in the jack.

 

 

 

The oleo dampers (nose gear elastomers) are comprised of four rubber discs captured by the nose gear link assembly.  New dampers are quite rigid and must be squeezed to get the bolts installed correctly.  A 3″ strap clamp wrapped around the motor mount provided the necessary compressive force for this operation.

 

 

After almost five years on the trolley, the fuselage finally can stand on it own!  With 250 pounds of weight attached to the motor mount, the tail just barely balances to stay off the ground, so a safety block in the tiedown bracket will prevent any tipping which could possibly occur.

 

 

Here are some views with the trolley removed.  To me this is starting to look like a real airplance.

 

 

 

Attaching nutplates for the wing root fairings was the last mechanical step before the end game on paint preparations.

 

 

 

PAINT

At the start of this project I had the arrogance to want to the paint the entire plane myself.  However, the experience of massive sanding efforts to correct my poor priming results convinced me to engage a professional for this task.  Here Mack is inspecting the bottom surfaces before applying paint.

 

 

Six coats of Desothane CA8800 I1222 Snow White paint now provide the base color on the fuselage. The painted surface is excellent (barring the wavy results from my amateur body work skills).  Very happy with this outcome and look forward to mounting the engine next.

 

 

Prime / Paint (2)

I was offline in recent weeks focused on prime and sand fuselage/components for base coat paint.  This work has been very tedious, uninteresting work and has been covered in previous posts.

The final paint scheme has been completed, as seen in the new website header. This design evolved from initial thoughts I conceived in Model Plane Color Design V2.4 (MACD) to a professionally structured layout. The final specifications were prepared by Craig Barnett from Scheme Designers. He was excellent to work with and provided very detailed instructions on how to proceed.  I then wrapped this design around a 3D CAD model I have been drafting in Blender for some time. While the model is only roughly proportioned to an RV10, the visual effect achieved should  be a good representation of the final outcome.

The next steps are reline the paint booth with new plastic sheeting and seal for tighter seams.  This will help with better air flow, plus help reduce dust particles from the shop.  Then mount the fuselage on the landing gear legs, mask off the firewall forward components and spray PPG Desothane CA8800 Snow White as the base coat.  I cannot wait for this to happen!

Initial design concept as shown in MACD.

 

 

 

 

Final design wrapped onto 3D model.

 

Prime/Paint (2)

Completion of body work and initial priming of the fuselage with DesoPrime CF took many weeks to accomplish.

The frame around the baggage door was just one example where the height difference between parts was leveled and smoothed.  After scuffing the raw aluminum surface and degreasing thoroughly, a mixture of West Marine resin/colloidal silica was applied to provide a hard substrate for later Superfil covering.  Multiple layers and many hours of sanding ensued to get the final result.

 

 

The treatment for just aluminum surfaces was scuff, degrease, apply Prekote, then prime.  The fuselage top was primed in a separate sequence than the bottom. (more on that later).

 

 

 

Before and after shots of the fuselage from the rear. The left photo shows filler transitions on the rear window, door openings, rear air scoop, and canopy/skin seams.

 

 

 

Before and after shot of the fuselage from the front.  The left photo shows body work around the windscreen base, door openings, forward air scoop and upper/side fuselage skin seams.

 

 

 

After the first prime on the upper fuselage, additional filler and smoothing was needed in a few places.  Particular improvements were applied for the windscreen base – where the transition to aluminum to the fiberglass base needed attention. The left photo shows the sanded elements ready for a second primer round.  The fuselage was then lifted about 6″ to provide more room to spray the bottom.

 

Having never painted upside-down before, applying primer to the bottom was a real challenge.  It took a few days of preparation before the painting session.  The results seemed fine, but later sanding will reveal whether the primer thickness is uniform across the surface.ad

 

 

 

MISCELLANEOUS

Custom elements were made prior to installation of the instrument panel and wiring harness.  The left photo shows 1/4″ connection tabs made into ground blocks for the wing roots and tail section.  The right photos shows brackets to hold cable bundles under the Aerosport kick panels near the rudder pedals.  These were needed as the default Vans brackets were too ‘proud’ (too high to fit under the plastic panels).

 

On the left is the SEM primed bracket with 2 AWG cables for PRI BATT and SEC BATT running from behind the baggage area to the firewall.  The kick panel was rough fit for the dummy instrument panel.  Later adjustments will be made when the real panel is installed.

 

Prime/Paint (1)

Now that many of the main components have been built, the next steps are prime and paint before final assembly.  The tail section and smaller removable parts were the initial targets for this activity.  I have been priming interior parts throughout the entire build, but this was my first experience with PPG CA7504 primer.  The decision was made to switch to this product, which is specifically designed for airplanes.  This primer is formulated with the elastomers, fillers and other ingredients for the flexibility needed to withstand rapid temperature changes, as compared to general automotive paints. This primer used in conjunction with PPG Aerospace topcoats prevents cracking, improves surface adhesion, and helps the mechanical characteristics of the paint layer.

The effort needed for painting takes considerable time, but is really not worthy of new posts.  I intend to prime all exterior components, then seek assistance from someone to spray the final topcoats.  I can perform the drudge work of preparations due to the time/cost involved, but am not confident enough to shoot a smooth, final surface. We shall see how this strategy goes.

 

The general steps of surface preparation, mixing and spraying are the same as the previously used on interior parts using automotive PPG DP40LF primer. The new material requires greater attention to mixing ratios, measuring induction time with a Zahn #2 viscosity cup (15-18 seconds) prior to application, and modifying the application technique.

 

 

Wing tips, rudder caps, and empennage parts were in the first batch.  The outcome of the initial session were very poor, with runs and fisheyes.  Subsequent attempts after sanding smooth and more rigorous surface preparations were much better.  Additional filters were installed in the pneumatic air lines, and the lines were thoroughly purged of water and debris. Plus using higher quality Techline gun for better atomization and holding the gun further from the surface seemed to help. A few cycles of spray practice on the first batch have improved my technique to eventually yield good results.

 

Preparation steps include using a maroon (=320 grit)  Scotch Brite pad in a palm sander to scuff the surface, clean with degreaser, condition with Prekote, then apply primer.

 

 

 

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The second batch on rudder and trim tabs worked out well with only one application session.  Next up are elevators, ailerons, flaps and the horizontal stabilizer.  The wings and fuselage will be last. More updates will be forthcoming when significant progress is made.

 

 

Rudder (close-up and after second prime)(October)

 

 

 

 

Ailerons (before and after priming)(October).

 

 

 

 

Elevators (October)

 

 

 

 

Oil door opening (November)

 

 

 

Oil door cover (November)

 

 

 

 

Flaps (November)

 

 

 

 

Horizontal Stabilizer – tip (November)

 

 

 

 

Horizontal Stabilizer (November)

 

 

 

 

 

COWL HINGES

The upper and lower engine cowlings are attached to the firewall with 1/8″ PIANO HINGE.  The initial sides and bottom pieces are shown.

Fabricated parts ready for fitting.  The right photo shows the initial layout, then match drilling occurs next.

 

 

 

 

Hand squeezing the side rivets was not so easy.  The angle of the firewall-to-side and interference with the squeezer head was an issue.  An number of rivets were later redone with a pneumatic jaw-type squeezer.

 

 

 

Final results were not great, but acceptable.