Monthly Archives: March 2022

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Cowl Baffling (1) and Miscellaneous Items

Preparation of the cowl baffling proceeded in parallel with the initial cowling work.  I was essentially trying to optimize parallel work time utilization – while the resin dried on the cowls, progress was made on the  baffles.

Back riveting on the forward air dam material is shown on the left.  Rough fitting the air dams is shown on the right.

 

 

 

 

The Vans plans call for fixed height, riveted deflectors in front of the #1 and #2 cylinders.  Experience from other builders indicated these may need trimming to optimize airflow inside the upper cowl chamber.  I elected to install #8 nutplates instead of rivets to allow easy removal of these parts for trimming or total replacement of these as needed.

 

 

Here the famous “paper clip method” was used to establish a 3/8″ gap between the solid air dam sides and the upper cowl surface. The trim lines are the final dimensions of the metal side plates.

 

 

 

Because the metal sides were so thin above the #1 and #3 cylinders, reinforcing backing plates were fabricated out of .032″ sheet aluminum to provide so additional strength.

 

 

 

The cylinder profile was created on construction paper to get a general outline. Then McFarlane air dam material was measured and cut.  Pliobond adhesive was applied and spring clamps used to press for curing.  This process did not produce great results, as the McFarlane material seems to have a siliconized coating to reduce friction against the inner cowl surface.  Probably great for this purpose, but not helpful when attempting to bond with other materials.

 

The inner side of the McFarlane dam material appears to be some form of rubber, while the outer side is smooth and laser etched to help conform bend to shape.

 

 

 

The rear baffle panel was backriveted into place.  Now that rivets have been applied, removing the combined pieces from around the motor mounts will be quite difficult.  It was a tight fit beforhand getting the separate parts located around the cylinders and over the mounts.

 

 

To finish the back baffle panel a hole for the propeller governor cable needed to be drilled. This required the final configuration of the cable mounting bracket to the prop governor.  Notice how the #3 cylinder fuel injection line is configured to clear the bracket and cable.

 

 

The side panels for #5 and #6 cylinders have access ports to allow socket wrench insertion for spark plug maintenance.  These holes are covered during normal operations with removable components to prevent air loss during flight.

 

 

Side gussets were custom formed for the front baffle plates, then riveted into place.

 

 

 

 

The left front baffle was drilled and opened for one of the heater induction air ports.

 

 

 

 

The front heater induction port has a meshed screen installed, then rivet into place.  At right, transitions between the upper and lower cowl faces were applied for a smooth surface.

 

 

 

Before fitting a special baffle around the prop governor, the simple gasket was replaced with one have a filter screen.  Fitting the special baffle over the prop governor should help with air loss.

 

 

 

The forward baffle seals were created with the default Vans material.  On the right the distance between the prop governor and the upper cowl was measured with a piece of modeling clay.

 

 

 

This photo shows the final baffle seals around the prop governor.

 

 

 

 

The right front baffle before and after the seals are pop riveted into place.

 

 

 

 

Seals were measured, cut, and Pliobond for the lower cowl air inlets from the default Vans material.

 

 

 

 

Final fitting of the Aerosport pin retention blocks and applying resin/glass bubbles around the edges.

 

 

 

 

Here the pin templates are shown from the interior space after raw application of just the resin/glass mixture.  At right is the final configuration with four layers of 6oz fiberglass applied.

 

 

 

Aluminum backer plates were fabricated for inside the pin block cavity.  The plans did not call for these, but I wanted additional rigidity for this area. The plates were relieved in the middle for access to the side piano hinges.

 

 

The side fiberglass was also relieved to match the backer plates, then clecoed in place for a final coating of Superfil to create smooth edges.  At right a kerfless saw separated the two cowl halves which had been joined by the pin retention cavity build process.

 

 

 

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

More parts were painted base white…

 

 

 

 

Headliner base repairs and new grounding straps…

 

 

 

 

Firesleeve dip for untreated oil and fuel lines…

 

 

 

 

Band-It Jr hose clamps and rescue tape wrappings for final line application (homemade firesleeve solution).

 

 

 

 

Custom mounting bracket for Matco glass brake fluid reservoir and custom brackets for under-seat line security (fuel, brake, control stick wires)…

 

 

 

Spinner and Cowling (1)

Although I have not posted in quite some time, work has continued on the airplane.  Primary attention has been given to cowl preparation and engine baffling.

The propeller used for the aircraft will be a Hartzell HC-C3Y1R-1N/N7605C three composite blade, hydraulically controlled model.  The recommended gap distance between the rear of the spinner and the forward face of the cowl is  to be no greater than 1/8″ to 1/4″.

 

 

 

The propeller hub measures 2.5″ from the forward face of the flywheel to the rear face hub bolting location of the spinner retention flange.  The flange spacers are 1/4″ long, the flange itself is 1″ wide, and finally the 1/4″ gap between spinner and cowl means the distance from flywheel face to cowl front should be 1″ apart.  Fine adjustments up to about 1/8″ can be made to the final gap by shimming the spinner flange with washers.

 

 

The cowl gap distance seemed difficult to measure accurately without a clearly fixed reference point. I decided to use the face of the flywheel as the starting point for all measurements. Here a plywood disc is measured and cut to match the spinner diameter.

 

 

 

The rough-cut spinner disc was rounded smooth using a router. The 1″ cowl gap was simulated with smaller discs made of plywood and plastic sheets.

 

 

 

The mounted reference disc shows where the forward face of the cowl should be.  All cowl alignment measures were taken from here.

 

 

 

This photo shows aligning the center of the spinner disc with the crankcase split.

 

 

 

 

To properly align the cowling, the fuselage must be leveled laterally.  The leveling points are between the door bulkheads in the center of the cabin.

 

 

 

Next the forward face of the upper cowl is positioned behind the spinner disc, then leveled left-right with the floor using plumb bobs.

 

 

 

Level references are marked at the front and rear of the upper cowl.  These are used during the trimming process.

 

 

 

 

The first trims are for the firewall gaps on the upper cowling.  Anything between 1/16″ to 1/8″ is considered acceptable.  Too tight is not good due to paint chipping and difficult fit, while too wide impacts airflow and does not look good. The key for appearance is uniform width along the length of the gap.

 

 

Next action is position the piano hinges and match drill for fit.  Unfortunately, the upper cowl fiberglass had reinforcing honeycomb too close to the edge for the hinge to lay flat.  That honeycomb had to be sanded back and layered with fiberglass to provide sufficient edge strength for piano hinge rivets.

 

 

On the left the final upper gap is shown – a bit less than 1/8″.  The right photo shows initial reference line for the cowl side gap.

 

 

 

Once marked the upper cowl side edge was sanded flat with a 24″ sanding block.  This edge became the reference for the lower cowl adjustments.  Four inch spacer blocks were attached between the upper and lower cowls, then measurements from the side reference line to the lower cowl.

 

 

The initial cowl side gap is shown here.

 

 

 

 

The hole pattern was used to layout locations 1″ apart for the firewall side piano hinges.  The resulting pattern established the permanent gap a bit less than 1/8′.

 

 

 

The same patterning process was performed on side piano hinges.

 

 

 

 

A spare piece of .030″ aluminum with one side covered with self-adhesive sandpaper was used to create a uniform distance from the hinge web to the fiberglass edge.  The lower cowl was drilled from the inside out, then clecoed in place.

 

 

The forward section cowling was roughly cut for the outline of the Aerosport pin retention plate.  The right photo shows the first smoothing steps on upper cowl.

 

 

 

The forward edges of each cowl did not align properly, so resin/glass bubbles were applied to provide a smooth transition.  Next the final fitting of the pin retention template was completed.

 

 

 

The Rod Bauer air scoop was positioned above the Van’s default scoop and correct dimensions for the cutout were made.  The forward face of the scoop must be about 1″ behind the swinging propeller arc, so very careful measurements were required.

 

 

Puckered and pulled the trigger on the pneumatic cutting wheel to remove the Van’s scoop.  This action left a hole just big enough for the K+N air filter housing of the Rod Bower system.

 

 

 

A test fit of the air inlet ring was made, followed by an initial resin/glass bubble layer around the scoop perimeter.

 

 

 

 

Multiple sanding and filler applications built up the edges between the original cowl surface and the newly introduced air scoop. Clecoes roughly 2.5″ apart securely held the scoop in position.

 

 

 

With the external portions of the scoop under way, the internal locations of Camlok fasteners were determined.  As with earlier described issue on the honeycomb webbing, the fastener bases needed relief and then reinforcing for a flat base.

 

 

 

Small base templates were used during the build-up stages, but a real Camlok served as the real template for fastener attach holes.