Category Archives: Section 20, Bottom Wing Skins

Wing Tips (3), Pitot System

The 2019 holidays saw plenty of shop time for plane work with continuation of a variety of wing preparations.

PITOT SYSTEM

The pitot and angle of attack (AOA) aluminum tubes near the wing root were flared to accept unions-to-plastic-tube conversions.  Note the 37 degree angle and coupler nut are dry fit, no need for lubrication on these pneumatic AN fittings.

 

 

 

The pitot mast attachment bracket (fabricated in previous posts) was riveted onto the second to last wing rib.  The pitot probe tubes were then bent to about a 90 degree angle.

 

 

 

The aluminum tubes at this end of the wing were also flanged using a Parker Rolo-Flair tool.  The red and blue markings are colored Rescue Tape.  Blue for the pitot line, red for the AOA tube.

 

 

 

The flanged tubes were then arced backwards with an Imperial 368-FH bending tool. This configuration now allows connection of the pitot lines through the wing ends.  After the skin is permanently riveted the access will be limited.

 

 

 

Once the pitot tubes were finished, then the nylon wiring conduit was cable-laced into position.  A few custom jigs were made to hold the J-channel stiffener in perfect alignment with the wing ribs.  This stabilized the rib orientations while the conduit was laced.

 

 

 

WING TIPS

To finalize the wing tip geometry the flaps and ailerons were attached and placed in the “neutral position”. This is establish using a combination of the Aileron Bellcrank jig and moving the flaps to the upper, hard stop position against the rear spar. The final angle was adjusted to 3 degrees with a few thin shims. The red Gust Lock in the photo holds the flaps/ailerons together at the same angle.

 

 

Here are the before and after pictures of the final wing tip alignment.  The steps described below were needed to make the corrections.

 

 

 

First the rear edge of the wing tip was separated with a saw. This allowed the end panels to slide against one another.  The wing rib holes were drilled to even spaces.  The split wing tip was then attached to the wing, and the wing rib progressively clecoed from the front edge toward the rear.  Colloidal silica resin, a straightedge and spring clamps were used to align the rear edge with the neutralized flap/ailerons.

 

 

The final edge was allowed to cure for 48 hours. Then the overage from the wing tips measured.  Eventually this extra material was removed (more on this in a later post).  The overall outcome was very satisfactory.

 

 

 

Another addition to the wing tips was a stiffener rib.  This helps prevent “oil canning” in flight due to air pressure on the wing tip surfaces.

 

 

 

 

WING SKINS

With the wing tips nearing completion and all the other mechanical elements in place, time to start riveting the lower skins.  This was a time consuming, two person effort. The right wing took about 10 hours to finish. We are just starting on the left wing now.

 

 

Bottom Wing Skins (2)

A series of miscellaneous activities were performed on the wings in the last few weeks.  This work was staged before any final riveting the bottom skins, as access is so much easier with the skins still off.

The quickbuild wings come with a main wiring channel in each wing. These roughly 5/8″ diameter hole have nylon inserts and are intended by Vans for the wingtip wire bundles.  Because of added electronics for heated pitot, aileron trim, autopilot servo, and the like, I wanted addition channels (thus the custom wire brackets from previous posts).  I also wanted dedicated grounding lines to the wingtips, so additional channels were created.  Here a template is used for reproducing the hole placement in the wing ribs.

 

 

Once measured, the 7/16″ holes are punched and then drilled with an angle head holding threaded bits.

 

 

 

The final configuration of each wing has three available channels, two through the ribs and one wiring chase attached to the custom brackets.  For the left wing, the 1/4″ soft aluminum tubes for the pitot and angle-of-attack (AOA) indicator will be fed through the larger of the runs through the ribs.

 

 

 

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PITOT MAST

A Gretz mount for a Garmin heated pitot needed to be crafted in the second from tip rib bay.  This location is further outboard from the Vans plans, but allows greater access for maintenance and adjusted once the bottom skin is attached.  On the left a backing plate is clecoed in place to mark the skin for a through-hole.

 

 

A sheet metal bending brake formed another  bracket for between the rib and the pitot mast backing plate.  The right photo shows the bracket clamped prior to drilling through the rib.

 

 

 

Here the #8 screw nut plates are attached to the pitot mast.

 

 

 

 

Two different views of the pitot mast – clecoed in the final position and showing in relation to the modified skin.

 

 

 

 

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MISCELLANOUS ACTIONS

Rich visited for two weeks to help with flap gap riveting, inspection port assembly and other miscellaneous activities.  We used CherryMax rivets of type CR3212-4-6 countersunk (qty. 6), and CR3213-4-2 (qty. 14) and CR3213-4-3 (qty. 6) round head rivets on the inner flap gap openings of each wing.

 

 

 

The wing bottoms were treated with SEM Self-etch primer from a rattle can prior to having the inspection port nut plates attached.

 

 

 

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AILERON ACTUATION

To properly locate the spring attachment points on the aileron push rods, the actuation levers and torque tubes must be installed and the rod oriented in a neutral position. More on that in  later posts.

Bottom Wing Skins (1)

The quick build wings come with main spars, tanks, and upper skins prepared.  The bottom skins, wiring, flap and aileron actuation, and pitot/static systems remain to be installed.

The first step for installing the bottom wings is fabricate Wing Box J-Stifferners – Long by cutting a long piece of J-channel to the correct length. Draw a centerline mark, then insert the unfinished piece into the rib cavities and hang the skin.

 

 

Next is #40 match drill the bottom skin with the J-channel pieces, aligning the center marks with the skin holes.

 

 

 

 

Remove the skin to deburr both sides, then dimple for AN426AD3-3.5 rivets.  Using the DRDT-2 dimpler greatly simplifies the task and produces very consistent results.

 

 

 

Dimple the upper skin in preparation for attaching the flap and aileron gap fairings.  I also decided to prime the gap area with PPG DP48LF white primer, as once closed this area will no longer be accessible. The wings will eventually be white in color.

 

 

Now dimple the gap fairings for the upper wing skin attachment.  Initially a hand squeezer was used, but quickly I reverted to the DRDT-2 as much quicker and easier to use.

 

 

 

The inward facing side of the gap fairings were also primed.  The photo right shows the primed inner surfaces and the flap gap stiffener riveted into place.

 

 

 

 

This picture shows riveting the gap fairings onto the upper wing skins.