Monthly Archives: October 2020

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Prime/Paint (1)

Now that many of the main components have been built, the next steps are prime and paint before final assembly.  The tail section and smaller removable parts were the initial targets for this activity.  I have been priming interior parts throughout the entire build, but this was my first experience with PPG CA7504 primer.  The decision was made to switch to this product, which is specifically designed for airplanes.  This primer is formulated with the elastomers, fillers and other ingredients for the flexibility needed to withstand rapid temperature changes, as compared to general automotive paints. This primer used in conjunction with PPG Aerospace topcoats prevents cracking, improves surface adhesion, and helps the mechanical characteristics of the paint layer.

The effort needed for painting takes considerable time, but is really not worthy of new posts.  I intend to prime all exterior components, then seek assistance from someone to spray the final topcoats.  I can perform the drudge work of preparations due to the time/cost involved, but am not confident enough to shoot a smooth, final surface. We shall see how this strategy goes.

 

The general steps of surface preparation, mixing and spraying are the same as the previously used on interior parts using automotive PPG DP40LF primer. The new material requires greater attention to mixing ratios, measuring induction time with a Zahn #2 viscosity cup (15-18 seconds) prior to application, and modifying the application technique.

 

 

Wing tips, rudder caps, and empennage parts were in the first batch.  The outcome of the initial session were very poor, with runs and fisheyes.  Subsequent attempts after sanding smooth and more rigorous surface preparations were much better.  Additional filters were installed in the pneumatic air lines, and the lines were thoroughly purged of water and debris. Plus using higher quality Techline gun for better atomization and holding the gun further from the surface seemed to help. A few cycles of spray practice on the first batch have improved my technique to eventually yield good results.

 

Preparation steps include using a maroon (=320 grit)  Scotch Brite pad in a palm sander to scuff the surface, clean with degreaser, condition with Prekote, then apply primer.

 

 

 

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The second batch on rudder and trim tabs worked out well with only one application session.  Next up are elevators, ailerons, flaps and the horizontal stabilizer.  The wings and fuselage will be last. More updates will be forthcoming when significant progress is made.

 

 

Rudder (close-up and after second prime)(October)

 

 

 

 

Ailerons (before and after priming)(October).

 

 

 

 

Elevators (October)

 

 

 

 

Oil door opening (November)

 

 

 

Oil door cover (November)

 

 

 

 

Flaps (November)

 

 

 

 

Horizontal Stabilizer – tip (November)

 

 

 

 

Horizontal Stabilizer (November)

 

 

 

 

 

COWL HINGES

The upper and lower engine cowlings are attached to the firewall with 1/8″ PIANO HINGE.  The initial sides and bottom pieces are shown.

Fabricated parts ready for fitting.  The right photo shows the initial layout, then match drilling occurs next.

 

 

 

 

Hand squeezing the side rivets was not so easy.  The angle of the firewall-to-side and interference with the squeezer head was an issue.  An number of rivets were later redone with a pneumatic jaw-type squeezer.

 

 

 

Final results were not great, but acceptable.

 

Wing Root Fairings (1) and Seat Brackets

Bending metal for the wing root fairings and making brackets for the seats were the tasks for this week.

To achieve the correct bend of the fairing attach brackets, they must first be clecoed at one end.  Flute pliers are used to align the pre-drilled locations in the fuselage mid-skins with the brackets.

 

 

The fluting/bending process continues until all brackets align.  The holes are then match drilled to final dimensions. These photos are show the forward brackets.

 

 

 

Here is the rear bracket.  Another task prior to wing attachment is relieve the main spars where the bottom skins attach.  Note the amount to be removed marked with a black Sharpie. The removal was by hand with Pferd files.

 

 

 

SEAT BRACKETS

The forward seats require additional brackets (not included in the quickbuild kit).  The standard process for file, deburr, scotchbrite, brightener, alodine, prime, paint, and rivet was applied.

Control System (2)

Previous posts described the rudder cables installation.  Here the final tabs were measured and installed.

Here are photos of the rudder pedal linkages and the rudder attachment.

 

 

 

 

Fairings were added to the cables outlet locations for added strength and a touch of streamlining.

 

 

 

 

EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS

Experience from other builders indicate the holes tapped in the longeron for the #6 screws holding the empennage fairings will eventually strip out from taking on and off.  While the tail section has not been completely sealed and the access was relatively easy, I added Click-Bond nutplates.

Transparencies and Miscellaneous

The Lexan/Plexiglass transparencies used for the rear and door windows were bonded with Lord 7475A/D two-part epoxy adhesive.  These parts were trimmed to size and smooth sanded in prior posts.

Electrical tape provided protection on the rear windows during roughing the inner surface with 120 grit sandpaper to enhance adhesion.  Then the window frames were taped so excess adhesive could be easily removed.

 

 

Shims in the form of AN960-10 and AN960-10L washers were placed to bring the window surface to level to -.010 inch of the canopy. This helps with the physical holding of the window, plus will allow for later blending with filler to a smooth transition.

 

 

The bonding process was a bit scary – only one shot to get it right.  The reason is the Lord adhesive cures very quickly and is extremely difficult to remove after it sets. Fortunately the rear windows turned out fine.

 

 

The same method described above was used on the door windows.  Straps and clamps hold the windows tight to the frame while the adhesive cures.

 

 

 

 

GMU MOUNT BRACKET

Previously a mounting bracket for the Garmin GMU 22 magnetometer was fabricated for placement in the mid-tail section. The angle of the bracket should be as close to zero degrees level with the fuselage waterline during flight as possible.  It was determined with a digital protractor that the bracket needed to be adjusted about 1.8 degrees down to meet this requirement.

The bracket was constructed so that brass screws adjust the tilt angle of the magnetometer platform to the flight waterline.  More on that adjustment in a later post. Here the GMU bracket is positioned along the plane centerline

 

 

 

The GMU bracket seen from above and below after priming from the hole drilling.  Note the use of brass screws and stop nuts.  According to vendor specifications, any magnetic components should be at least 2-3 feet from the magnetometer. The location of the bracket in the tail should achieve this goal.

 

 

These pictures are the final fit of the GMU bracket to the custom platform.