Category Archives: Logistics

Logistics (Fuselage and Wing Moves)

The 2022 Labor Day weekend saw the transportation of fuselage and wings to the final assembly location in my hangar at KTTA.  Many thanks to Terry G. for the use of his equipment, his expertise and patience in dealing with a very nervous builder (me) during the “Big Move”.

The cowl was attached to the fuselage for transport, then pushed outside the shop to be loaded onto a 22′ heavy equipment trailer. Initially we intended to load the plane facing forward, but found rolling it on backwards would be much easier.

 

 

 

The trailer was about 8’6″ wide, but the main landing gear wheels were about 8′ even.  As a result, the movable ramps had to be relocated outwards to accommodate loading the plane. An electrical winch attached to the tail cone started pulling the fuselage up the ramp.  Eventually the pull angles were wrong, so we used the body weight of two people to hold down the tail while others pushed the main wheels between grates on the loading ramp.

 

 

Loading was a very slow, deliberate process as the leeway between main wheels and edge of the trailer was only about 3″ on either side. The fuselage was carefully inched backwards up the ramp and into position.  A wheel coming off the trailer would have spelled disaster and could have ruined the entire fuselage.

 

 

More photos inching the fuselage onto the trailer.

 

 

 

 

Eventually the main wheels were chocked close to each edge.  Multiple ratchet straps held down the main and front wheels. These were tightened into a very stable configuration; one secured from movement in all directions (left, right, forward, backwards, and up).

 

 

Rolling down the highway towards the airport!  The actual road transport went without any issues with a safe arrival at the end.

 

 

 

Multiple volunteers helped unload the fuselage – basically the reverse of the load process, but much easier with the gravity assist.  Here the fuselage was moved off the trailer…

 

 

 

… and into the hangar.

 

 

 

 

Now that the ‘big move” was complete, the protective film on the windows was removed.

 

 

 

 

WING TRANSPORT

The wings were moved to the airport with Tal’s trailer just as previously posted from house to shop.

 

Wing Attachment (1) (Paint)

Painting the wings required about three weeks of preparation, surface treatment, and priming prior to paint application.

Custom wing rotisseries were created by Terry G. specifically for RV wings.  I created some special attach plates to directly accommodate the RV10 wing bolt patterns. Here the wings are mounted, scuffed with maroon Scotchbrite pads, and treated with Prekote before priming with DesoPrime Grey.

 

 

Prior to scuffing the wings I fitted the outboard side of the wing root fairings, but made a mistake by dimpling one of the nutplate holes in the wrong location. The nutplate still went on fine, but did not align perfectly with the pre-drilled holes in the Vans cover piece.  In the long term this is not a big issue, especially since this area will be covered by wing walk material anyway.  However, it was aggravating not to have paid close enough attention to the plans.

 

Fastener holes for the flaps and ailerons are filled with ear plugs or electrical tape to prevent covering with primer or paint.

 

 

 

After initial prime and paint a few runs and poor coverage were discovered.  As a result the wings were wet sanded with 600 grit, then repainted.  The final results were very good.

 

 

 

Here the wings were ready for the move to the airport.  They had been painted 2 weeks before and were allowed to cure completely before being taken on the highway.

 

 

 

HS RESPRAY

The original quality of the HS tip bulkhead paint did not meet expectations.  So while there was extra paint available from repeat covering the wings, I decided to redo the ends.  Here the ends are shown sanded and ready for another coat of primer and paint.

Moving Day

After about four years in a rented facility, I moved the fuselage to Tal’s workshop for interior painting and fitting mechanical systems.

Work has progressed on the fuselage where most of the structural items are complete.  Now a focus on installing electrical, fuel and flight controls can proceed.  First up, however, is final internal painting at Tal’s shop.  Here Eric and I pickup the trailer for moving the fuselage.

 

 

 

Using the wooden jig certainly helped rolling the fuselage up the portable ramps onto the trailer.  The roughly 10 mile drive to Tal’s shop was on back roads at max of 30mph.  It was a nail-biter for me, as 5 years of work was exposed to road hazards.  Fortunately, the trip went well and safe arrival.

 

 

 

Unloading the fuselage also proceeded without incident.  My immediate next actions are clean-out the rented shop first to get the deposit back.  Then on to plane things…

 

Engine, Propeller (Airventure 2018)

Eric and I drove to Airventure 2018 in Oshkosh primarily to order an engine and propeller from Van’s.

The show discounts from Van’s amounted to $1000 when ordering both components together, plus free shipping.  The engine is a 260hp Lycoming XIO-540-D4A5, while the propeller is a 3-blade Hartzell C3Y1R-1N/N7605C with a C-4582-P spinner (picture at left).  The engine will be added to the production schedule and should be built in 3-4 months.  The propeller is expected to ship in 4-6 weeks.  After much discussion, I was also able to get a free hat from Lycoming.

 

 

We stopped by SteinAir to ask a few questions about G5 autopilot connections, and VOILA! – they had a demonstration panel with nearly the exact equipment and layout I have been imagining for some time.  This is essentially how mine will be configured with a few alterations for internal lights, USB power and CO2 sensors.  Otherwise excellent.

 

 

These two products were obtained during the week. Both are very versatile for aeronautical and home use.  My first application was replace an air hose clamp with .032 safety wire. The combination works great and eliminates the sharp edges of the hose clamp when handling.

 

Interior Paint (1)

The entire week was used to prepare for the first interior paint in the cockpit.  Materials were transported from the garden shed, my usual paintbooth, to the shop.  These included air compressor, paint gun, supplies, hoses, fans, filters, and barrier walls. Quite a logistics challenge. Eric and I got up Saturday at 5:00am to beat the oppressive heat which comes later in the day. Temperature in the shop was a comfortable 74F in the shop before the sun came up.

IMGP6674A rudimentary paint booth is constructed of large cardboard sheets and thin plywood paneling.  This is not intended for long term use, just enough to keep paint/fumes fairly contained on the side.

 

 

IMGP6678IMGP6687Fans/filters placed in the tail and on the plywood barrier are just enough to keep a gentle air flow from back to front, then out the shop door.  This concept, while looking very crude in the photos, worked extremely well in practice.

 

 

IMGP6681IMGP6686IMGP6690The basic process getting ready to shoot remains the same:  suit up, shake and mix well. Then pucker and pull the trigger.

 

 

IMGP6691IMGP6692Now for the results – baggage door and rear seat areas. Only those visible areas are painted. The remaining parts are covered by side or floor panels.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6693IMGP6694Firewall and side panels.  Some areas here are perhaps a bit thin on paint, but no worries about appearance, as these sections will be covered with soundproofing material and probably panels as well.

 

 

IMGP6695IMGP6696Front floorboards and forward seating areas.

 

 

 

 

I used PPG Concept paint coded DCC in Boeing grey (BAC707).  This is a three part system with paint, reducer and hardener. This stuff is fantastically hard, flows together when applied properly, and covers very well. Any runs can be sanded and resprayed for a smooth finish .  The downsides to this material are its high expense and caution must be taken for personal safety. The poly-isocyanates in the hardener are toxic and exposure must be avoided. Fortunately I have the HobbyAir breathing system, safety glasses, gloves and professional paints suits for protection.

Next steps are install the sound dampening material, run the electrical conduit under floor boards, then rivet all the floor panels in place. I may not do another round of painting, as the overall results for the first round were pretty good.

 

Old Micrometers

Rich forwarded an old set of 1″ and 2″ precision tools purchased by our grandfather over 70+ years ago.  The smaller model is a No.113 Starret micrometer, while the larger version is a Starret No.213.  A good cleaning and some fresh Starret Tool and Instrument oil have both actions working very smoothly.  They have a bit of surface rust (not much) which greatly adds to their character. Both read down to 0.0001 inches and seem fairly accurate. I purchased a special adjustment wrench specifically made for these devices for $12 and will get a final read once a precision gauge block arrives.

Old school tools are becoming my new hobby, and having the family connection with my grandfather does not hurt. He was trained in Germany shortly after WW1 as a fine tool and die maker, then came to this country in 1925 to eventually work at Timken Roller Bearing in Canton, OH as a quality inspector.

IMGP6039Here the 4th generation (my son Eric) is using the No.113 to measure the thickness of rear floor panel material.  Our goal is install some inspection panels in the floorboards to later evaluate step bolts and ADSB/transponder connections which will be located under the riveted floor. At one time we thought about making the panel removable, but changed our minds when Van’s indicated the floor provides structural rigidity between fuselage and tailcone.

Christmas in July

July 22 – I was in LA on a business trip when the quickbuild kits for wings and fuselage got delivered.  Fortunately I have two strapping sons to provide the brawn needed to unload the parts.  The driver, Mike, from P+M Express out of Bend, OR transported my parts together with identical QB kits for a fellow builder on the same trip – saved freight costs for both of us.

The pictures speak for themselves, as the well packed items came out of the trailer.  Upon returning home, I did a quick evaluation for damage or problems.  So far everything looks good, but the detailed inventory starts this weekend.  I  have 30 days from delivery to report any issues back to Van’s.

Eric and I have also done quick inspections of the professional workmanship provided by the factory against our own efforts.  While certainly there are items I would like to redo, most of our work compares favorably.  From a quality perspective I will not be ashamed to bolt my tailcone onto the Van’s fuselage base.

IMGP5373Here the truck is parked outside our rented shop space. Apparently the temperature was still in the high 90’s after 6:00pm when unloading occurred.

 

 

 

IMGP5376IMGP5378First item out is the cabin canopy.

 

 

 

 

IMGP5379IMGP5385Next the Lexan windscreen.

 

 

 

 

IMGP5395IMGP5399The fuselage section rolls out on a Van’s jig. After inventory is complete, I will build a similar jig out of wood.

 

 

 

 

IMGP5401I thought the shop was big, but these parts started to take up space quickly.

 

 

 

 

IMGP5406Wings stored overhead in the trailer.

 

 

 

 

IMGP5410IMGP5412Out come the wings – heavy and bulky.  This required at least three people to man-handle without dropping.

 

 

 

IMGP5415IMGP5419Either jigs or a rotisserie will be constructed to hold the wings as well.

CP214 Riveter Rebuilds

Rich bought two old Chicago Pneumatic riveters from Raybourn Thompson as part of his shop liquidation sale.  New ones cost $700-1000 each, but Rich got the pair for $165.  The tandem unit worked poorly, the single piston model did not function at all.  I contemplated sending these out for repair, but read online somewhere that “if you can build an RV10, you can repair these yourself”.  I took that advice and disassembled everything, then looked for places to get parts.  On a tip from my technical counsellor, I contacted Bob Avery at Avery Tools.  After many email exchanges with his advice and guidance, about $250 in parts were obtained and the rebuild began.

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New Workshop and Tools

Over the first two weeks in 2015 Rich came from Texas with a Trooper full of wonderful old tools.  The crown jewels included a Delta-Rockwell 28-207 bandsaw (based on a model 890 and made in Tupelo, MS in 1953), a Delta 17-900 drill press, belt sander, grinder, scroll saw, and numerous drill vises, clamps, and jigs.  We spend most of the two weeks dis-assembling, cleaning, lubricating, and reconfiguring.  Here are a series of photos showing the work in the new shop location.

IMGP4896The old rubber tires looked near original.  Nice, but not very effective these days.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4906IMGP4924Between Rich and I we acquired numerous rebuild parts. Most of them came from Iturra Design.  It is quite interesting that almost all the parts (besides the cast iron pieces) can be had new for this machine.

 

 

IMGP4897IMGP4900Removing, cleaning, and putting new tires on the wheels.

 

 

 

 

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IMGP4911IMGP4960New ceramic, from a company literally called SpaceAge Technology).

 

 

 

 

IMGP4907IMGP4917After using the bandsaw a few times, I went ahead with ordering replacement bearings, shims,  and some additional parts.  Started the rebuild process again.

 

 

 

IMGP4961IMGP4951Remove the table and dis-assemble the adjustment mechanism.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4965IMGP4975Clean and reassemble the table adjustment mechanisms.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4982Table and saw blade reinstalled.  Notice the new cranks and bolts on the trunnions, courtesy of Rich.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4970IMGP4971Remove the old bearings. Note the retaining clips on the upper wheel.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4966Lower bearing installed on drive side.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4967IMGP4969Lower bearing on wheel side partially, then fully installed.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4976 IMGP4980Here is the new wheel brush installed on the lower guard.  I replaced the 39″ v-belt with one 35″ long.  Why – because there was absolutely no tension adjustment with the longer belt – the motor rested directly on the mounting plate.  I used 3/8″ x 4″ bolts to elevate the motor slightly and used multiple nuts for final height/tension adjustment.  This configuration seems to work well.

 

IMGP4995IMGP4996Q-bond was used to repair the original bakelite light shade. This completes the refurbishment process for the time being. With the cleaning, new parts and bearings, the saw runs very smoothly.

 

 

 

DRILL PRESS

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We measured the runout on this machine at less than 0.001″ of an inch right off his truck. Outstanding!  I will replace belts, a few missing set screws, a broken belt-tensioning eccentric lever, and fix the table adjusting crank, but overall the machine works great.  The photos above show it in action on some tail section bulkheads, and Rich using a Forstner bit to make some ‘furniture-quality’ floor stands.

 

SECOND REBUILD

IMG_0016cAfter receiving the parts, I proceeded to drill out the broken bolt on the table adjusting crank.  The over-sized hole was then tapped for a M10 metric bolt.  This arrangement seems to work well.

 

 

 

IMGP4998IMGP5005The top pulleys and belt housing were removed to clean the motor adjustment pins.  After a good greasing, these were reinstall on the cast iron head. A replacement power switch faceplate is added after the wiring is put back in place.

 

 

IMGP5017IMGP5007Final adjustments to the faceplate and ready for power on.

 

 

 

 

IMG_0025I broke the original retaining bolt off during the initial cleanup.  After repeated attempts to back out the broken bolt shaft, I finally purchased a left-handed cobalt drill.  This worked well, but the bolt did not back out on its own.  Tapping the final hole with an M10-1.5 set I had from Germany, then filling with an appropriate metric set screw did the trick.

 

 

IMG_0018IMG_0019The addition of a Peachtree PW929 drill press laser for $40 rounds out the second rebuild.

 

 

 

 

IMG_0020The laser functions on the principle that two intersecting planes form a straight line.  By adjusting the two laser heads vertically with the spindle shaft and correcting for angle should provide a clear cross indicator for a drill center at any depth.  Very cool on the science side, plus it makes positioning your drill piece extremely fast and easy. I would say this is good value for the price. We’ll see how robust it is as time goes by.

 

 

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VISE and SANDER (January 31, 2015)

IMGP4984I bought an old Wilton 4″ vise on Craigslist for $25 a few weeks ago.  As show here, the jaw inserts were missing, with the broken fastening screws left in the faces.  A 5/32″ left-handed, cobalt was used to drill them out.  Fortunately all four screws backed out on their own during the drillout process.  Luck will beat skill most times!

 

 

IMGP4988IMGP4989Here is the vise after cleaning and greasing.  I will mount on a 2″x8″ board, and should be able to clamp down to the bench surfaces as needed. Replacements faces are on order, so it should work good as new.

 

 

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(February 7) I used 1/4″ lag screws to fasten to the board.  Overall result – rock solid.

 

 

 

 

IMGP4994Rich built another quality base for the Craftsman sander and grinder he brought from Texas.  Here both are shown mounted on the base.  The sander was cleaned and new 5″ disc / 1″ x 15″ belt were added.

 

 

 

WORKBENCH BASE

Custom base now brings all the bench surfaces to a uniform 36-3/4″ above the floor.  This is the same height for my EAA benches, and the DRDT-2 dimpling machine.

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Tools

Many speciality tools are needed to fabricate a kit airplance.  I spent years researching the subject and still did not have enough information to get it right the first time.  However, my first bulk purchase went to Cleaveland Tools in Ames, IA for their RV10 starter package.

IMGP3271Here is the original packing list.  Eric and I did a full inventory on the first shipment, only found one issue needing correction.  Some tools were back-ordered, but otherwise responses from Annette from Cleaveland have always been immediate, friendly, and helpful.

 

 

 

IMGP3259IMGP3262This package was slightly under $3000, but I have subsequently gone over that number as the work has progressed. However, I can confirm what every builder already knows – you can never have too many tools!

 

 

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