To organize all the small pieces and parts which come with the kit, I bought six plastic trays with moveable partitions. I got the portable type instead of wall mounted units for the ability to move closer to the work area if needed.
This tray contains all the AN426 and AN470 rivets which came with the kit. Another has the pop rivets, another the screws/bolts, bonding strap/static wick materials, and so forth.
The final paint scheme for the plane is a long way in the future. However I did want some vision of how it might look, plus have plenty of time to decide with Rita on colors and layout. A software package called Model Airplane Color Builder was purchased to help with the visualization. Here is one of the default bitmap files from the application.
The electrical power went off for quite a while today at our house and at the boys, as heavy thunderstorms and high winds knocked down trees and power poles around the area. Our internet connection was also down for about an hour. Tornado warnings were issued for Wake County, so not much work was done directly on the plane. I did use the time, however, to stage and later assemble a few logistical items.
Many RV10 builders recommend using a piece of angle iron for both jigging and back-riveting the trailing edge of rudder, elevators, and ailerons. I had a six foot long section 1.75 inch wide, perfect for this application. Here I am measuring for the attachment holes.
The plan is marry the angle iron with a 2×4 for clamping onto the workbenches. Making the combined unit removable will help with flexibility in the cramped shop space.
The holes are recessed in the front side wood face to allow the bolt heads with washers to be flush with the surface.
Clamped on the workbench side the angle iron can be adjusted up or down relative the the top. Before using the unit to align the rudder trailing edge, I plan to belt sand the iron and the married 2×4 wood. This will ensure they are absolutely flat, plus removes rust from the old iron surface.
Also spent time with the power out to assemble the Ingersoll-Rand ARO 1000 Series air filters and regulator. (l-r) 5micron filter, 5micron filter, 0.3micron coalescing filter, and 160psi regulator. The goal is making sure no dust, oil, or water gets to the spray gun for priming/painting. These small units supposedly can handle ~50cfm of air, much more than the 5cfm needed for my Asturo ECO/SX gun.
The first section of the dunk tank for alodine and aluminum prep, DX503 and DX533 respectively, was completed today. It is make from three 8′ long 2×4 studs with a 1/4″ plywood bottom. This will be lined with 4-5mil plastic on each side, then filled with about 3 gallons of material. Drain holes at this end of the tanks will funnel material back into 5 gallon sealable buckets when each cycle is done.
The length of the tank is adjustable using 6″ 2×4 pieces. This 8′ section can be used for almost all empennage parts, the exceptions being the eleven foot spars for the horizontal stabilizer. For these another section about 5′ long will be made, then bolted to the end of this tank. Two smaller tanks in this configuration will be easier to manipulate than on huge 12′ tank. The backs of both tanks can also serve as painting surfaces when they are not in use otherwise.
This week Eric and I installed a work surface in the 8’x10′ shed in our back yard. The intention is to utilize the shed for corrosion protection and priming/painting. I have decided to use the alodine process (PPG DX503 surface treatment) on ribs and spars, using a dunk tank to submerge the parts completely for 100% coverage on all the nooks/crannies of these parts. The big flat surfaces like skins will be treated with PreKote.
After the different corrosion treatments, the interior parts will then be primed with two-part epoxy primer. The selected primer is PPG DP40LG, grey-green in color with good adhesion characteristics and excellent water vapor penetration protection.
Here are the complete untouched photos for the RV10 project to-date. These will form the basis of the blog posts leading up to this point.
One basis for a good shop is having solid workbenches. Years of experience and recommendations from knowledgeable folks led me to using EAA Chapter 1000 plans for the benches. I wanted multiple smaller units rather than on a big, single table to allow flexibility in configuration due to the cramped space in the bonus room, but still have the ability to clamp then together to form a longer surface. The EAA plans were ideal for this and good documentation was available for wood specifications and cutting plans. I did want the top surfaces to be 36″ off the ground, because of comfort for my own height (shorter would cause me to bend over slightly for everything). I slurged cost-wise to buy clear Douglas Fir 2×4 and 3/4″ plywood from a speciality lumber company in Raleigh. The cost of the wood was about $500, which I know is quite expensive. The final outcomes, however, justified the cost. At least in my mind.
Rich came for an initial visit to help with building the benches. He had used the EAA plans on a previous project and had insights on construction techniques.
The benches are basically built from the upper surface down to the legs. This allows each level/stage to be accurately references against the final desired height.
The main posts have been installed, now for the first reinforcement pieces down to the second level shelves.
Everything gets screwed and glued into place. Using clear, straight wood is a Godsend for accurate building.
More jigging and clamping for straight results.
More assembly…
The slight overhang of the surfaces are routed flush with the side rails, then sanded ready for polyurethane coating.
Benches are not supposed to be constructed as finely as furniture, but I decided to add moulding strips anyway.
Here is a close-up of the top surface edged with 1″ moulding. This is probably overkill, but the results are nice.
The work surfaces are sealed with two coats of MinWax polyurethane to keep down any absorption of fluid and splinter reduction.
The final benches are nice, straight, perfectly aligned, and level. Great start to the project. Thanks to Rich and the kids for all their help.
