Custom Wire Brackets

The default wire channels from Vans do not include provisions for additional devices I will be installing in the plane (auto pilot servos, heated pitot mast,  aileron trim servo, dedicated grounding wires, …).  In addition a nylon conduit would allow easier future maintenance than the holes through the ribs.

A series of custom wire brackets were fabricated from 1/16″x 1″ x 1.25″ angle aluminum. The band saw fence was setup to cut raw brackets the same width.

 

 

 

 

Here they are, one for each wing rib to span.

 

 

 

 

Next use a jig on the drill press to accurately reproduce the hole pattern for each bracket.

 

 

 

 

Cut, drilled, prepped, primed, and ready to assemble.  The 5/8″ nylon conduit will later be cable laced to the holders.  Zip ties could be used, but I prefer the endurance and flexibility of the cable lace.

 

 

 

Here is a through shot of the conduit run laid out with string. Then installation begins…

 

 

 

 

As with many of these operations on the wing, having the bottom skin still off makes everything so much easier.

Wing Tips (2)

This is placeholder text for details to be added later.

aaa

 

 

 

 

aaa

 

 

 

 

aaa

 

 

 

 

aaa

 

 

 

 

aaa

 

 

 

 

Here the fuel tanks are being removed from the quick built wings. The next step is leak test them with real aviation fuel, reseal as needed before installing back on the wings.

Wing Tips (1)

Once the bottom skins are ready for installation, work can begin on the wing tips.

The wing tip edges must be shortened to fit into the roughly 3/16″ (10mm) gap between the last wing rib and the skin edge.

 

 

 

After initial trimming for fit, the wing tip is #40 match drilled with the top and bottom skins.  Start at the forward portion of the wing and work backward (up in the photos).

 

 

Other builders highly advise reinforcing the very thin fiberglass web in the wing tips to prevent ‘oil canning’ both during flight and on the ground (spectators leaning on your wing).  This shows a provisional fit of 1″ rigid foam, which eventually will be glassed into place mid-section of the wing tip.

 

 

While the wing tips at this point are far from completion, having them provisionally hung on the wings is a great feeling.  The wing components are starting to look like an actual part of the aircraft.

Bottom Wing Skins (1)

The quick build wings come with main spars, tanks, and upper skins prepared.  The bottom skins, wiring, flap and aileron actuation, and pitot/static systems remain to be installed.

The first step for installing the bottom wings is fabricate Wing Box J-Stifferners – Long by cutting a long piece of J-channel to the correct length. Draw a centerline mark, then insert the unfinished piece into the rib cavities and hang the skin.

 

 

Next is #40 match drill the bottom skin with the J-channel pieces, aligning the center marks with the skin holes.

 

 

 

 

Remove the skin to deburr both sides, then dimple for AN426AD3-3.5 rivets.  Using the DRDT-2 dimpler greatly simplifies the task and produces very consistent results.

 

 

 

Dimple the upper skin in preparation for attaching the flap and aileron gap fairings.  I also decided to prime the gap area with PPG DP48LF white primer, as once closed this area will no longer be accessible. The wings will eventually be white in color.

 

 

Now dimple the gap fairings for the upper wing skin attachment.  Initially a hand squeezer was used, but quickly I reverted to the DRDT-2 as much quicker and easier to use.

 

 

 

The inward facing side of the gap fairings were also primed.  The photo right shows the primed inner surfaces and the flap gap stiffener riveted into place.

 

 

 

 

This picture shows riveting the gap fairings onto the upper wing skins.

 

Wheel Fairings (1)

Progress has been made over the summer in my air conditioned basement workshop, I have just not kept up with routine posts.  A series of updates for actions taken over the last few months should be appearing soon.

The next items after working on the wheels, axles and brakes are the initial rough assembly of the wheel pants.

The shell halves of fiberglass need to be fit together.  As has been the case with all fiberglass parts so far, tolerances from one part to another are just approximations.  Much hand sanding and fitting is needed to align the edges properly.

 

 

Once the main shells are close, finding the exact vertical and horizontal alignments of the main sections is needed. The Vans plans describe how to determine this geometry on the parts.

 

 

 

Enlarging the default openings to greater than called for in the plans seems to be required for good operational results.  Friends with RV10s have described wheel pant rubbing, or even fractures in the pant structure as the result of tire expansion contact with the pant on landing.

 

 

The strut fairings have fairly complicated shape due to hanging back and out from the fuselage. Fortunately a template is provided in the plans.

Landing Gear (1)

I will be using Matco brakes and wheels for this build.  The design and quality of their parts is excellent.  Friends with similar installations on their aircraft highly recommend the braking capacity as compared to the stock items available from Van’s.  Also the front axle is replace with a version which cannot rotate, instead forcing the wheel to spin on the bearings (as intended). Apparently the original designed axle can spin along with the wheel itself.  This causes wear and eventually serious vibration over time.

FRONT WHEEL

On the left are the available parts for the front wheel laid out for inspection.  Side standoff blocks where the front tow bar is attached must be fabricated from 1.5″ x 1.25″ x 0.75″ pieces of aluminum.

 

 

 

To prevent the Matco axle from rotating with the wheel, a retention bolt must be inserted through the front fork.  The receiving piece is fastened on the outside to act as a drill guide for the drill/ream operation shown on the right.

 

 

 

Outcome of the drilling operation – perfect fit.

 

 

 

 

Once the tube and Aero Classic 5.00-5, 6 ply tire retread from Desser are mountedd on the hub, static balancing is performed. For this wheel, the heaviest part always occurs where the valve stem is located.  A few motorcycle weights will need to be attached to the rim to compensate.

 

 

 

 

MAIN LANDING GEAR

The left photo shows the main gear parts laid out for inspection.  The right picture is the wheel axle held by a custom wooden jig.  The horizontal  attitude of the hardened axle should make the wheel assembly easy

 

 

 

Standoffs and spacers between the brake torque plate and the wheel pant bracket are needed for correct alignment.  Here the spacers made from 3/8″ aluminum tube are measured with a digital micrometer to roughly 21/32 inches in length. They were subsequently rough cut on the bandsaw, then sanded to final tolerance on a 5″ tabletop sander.  The completed lengths across all 6 parts are very consistant.

 

 

 

The spacers are visible on the left between the torque plate and the wheel pant bracket.  This space holds the brake caliper unit.

 

 

 

 

The assembled wheel fits just right. Note the black anodized Matco nut holding a spacer washer from the open bearing seal.  The nut is tightened just enough to keep the seal/race from rotating with the wheel – this job is for the bearings themselves.  A final step still to be completed is mark the correct position of the nut on the axle, then use a carbide end mill to create a hole for a retention cotter pin.

 

 

 

 

Here are different views of the mock assembled wheel.  Next is disassemble everything again, drill the cotter pin hole, torque the hub bolts, and prime the wheel pant bracket. The final assembly  will occur when the main gears are attached to the fuselage.

 

 

Moving Day

After about four years in a rented facility, I moved the fuselage to Tal’s workshop for interior painting and fitting mechanical systems.

Work has progressed on the fuselage where most of the structural items are complete.  Now a focus on installing electrical, fuel and flight controls can proceed.  First up, however, is final internal painting at Tal’s shop.  Here Eric and I pickup the trailer for moving the fuselage.

 

 

 

Using the wooden jig certainly helped rolling the fuselage up the portable ramps onto the trailer.  The roughly 10 mile drive to Tal’s shop was on back roads at max of 30mph.  It was a nail-biter for me, as 5 years of work was exposed to road hazards.  Fortunately, the trip went well and safe arrival.

 

 

 

Unloading the fuselage also proceeded without incident.  My immediate next actions are clean-out the rented shop first to get the deposit back.  Then on to plane things…

 

Canopy, Doors, and Custom Parts

Work has continued on plane parts, though the frequency of my posts has diminished since the beginning of the year.  Here is a quick catch-up of recent activities.

The fuselage sill is filled with two-part resin/colloidal silica mixture just prior to dropping the canopy into place.

 

 

 

 

The lower retaining screws are locked into position while the resin cures.  Next the canopy and mid-skins are pop riveted together along both sides.  These two actions permanently attach the canopy to the fuselage.

 

 

 

 

Here are exterior and interior views of where the canopy and mid-skin meet. Overall a nice result.

 

 

 

 

DOOR HINGE PIN BLOCKS

The PlaneAround center cam gear block is located under the gear mechanism and then drilled/screwed in tightly.

 

 

 

 

Next the door pins are replaced with custom turned 5/16″ bolts to indicate the exact locations of the bulkhead through-holes.  The right photo shows the resulting latch pin location.

 

 

 

 

Finally the outer pin blocks are positioned to force the door down and in when the door lever is activated. Right now the fit is very snug, but I expect this will loosen a bit over time.  One this is for sure with this configuration, those doors will not be coming off the airplane in flight!

 

 

 

 

Baggage Door Hinges

I was not happy with fit or configuration of the original baggage door, so off came the larger hinges.  These were replaced with smaller hinges, and pins moved to a middle insertion point.  This allowed the relationship between the door, hinge and outer skin surface to be flush, as compared to having the hinges sticking out to allow pin insertion.

 

 

 

 

Custom Parts

Moving heavy objects around in the basement shop will be helped with a few custom-made skates.  These are made from 2×4 steel beams, 5/8″ drill rod at 10-2RS sealed ball bearings.  The plans are from the internet with no welding required, just proper alignment in the drill press. Eric will make 3D printed end caps to hold the skate axles in place.

Overhead Console (2)

Bonding the overhead console and painting the canopy interior were completed over the holidays.

Lord 7545A/E two part epoxy adhesive is combined through a static mixer tube with 21 cross-linking elements, then spread generously along the flanged edge of the Aerosport Products carbon-fiber overhead console

 

 

Clecoes, weights, spring clamps and sandbags are used to hold the console in place while the adhesive drys.  Some folks have performed this operation with the canopy already on the plane, but doing it with the canopy overturned allows gravity to be my friend.

 

 

After 24 hours of cure time, the Lord adhesive has finished bonding the surfaces together. Next is blending the overhead flange into the canopy interior surface.  Multiple layers of Super-Fil are applied and sanded until the transition between parts is invisible.  Layers of Poly Fiber Smooth Prime are rollered onto all the fiberglass surfaces.

 

 

The Smooth Prime is sanded in final preparation of priming/painting the canopy interior.  The standard PPG DP48LP Primer and DCC Concept paint will be applied as with all the other interior components.

 

 

 

Staged, degreased, and ready for treatment in Tal’s paint booth.

 

 

 

 

And here are the outcomes after two coats of primer and one coat of paint.  I think these turned out very well.

 

Cabin Doors, Custom Parts (2)

Installation of final door hardware and fabrication of custom hinge pocket covers were the topics for a few weeks.

Door handle, gas strut attach bracket

 

 

 

 

Aerosport low profile latch mechanism, interior and exterior views

 

 

 

 

adding magnets to latch pins, interim rod assembly, and final pin actuation

 

 

 

 

door hinges attached to door, preparations underway for fabricating the custom door pocket covers

 

 

 

 

fiberglass formed to exact pocket dimensions, cover plate clamped in place for adhesion to molded piece

 

 

 

 

initial sanding of canopy interior, initial installation of wire runs in forward canopy channel with E6000 adhesive

 

 

 

 

application of fiberglass over wire runs, which are actually 3/8″ air hose line.  build-up of inner door hinge pockets for even base for Airward nutplate pieces

 

 

 

 

forward and center canopy sections filled with Superfil and smoothed in preparation for bonding in overhead console

 

 

 

 

custom covers for the overhead console where the reinforcement bar comes up from the dashboard