Category Archives: Rv-10 Build Project

Tailcone Prep (Alodine/Prime)

After vacation in Germany, I spent the next few weekends preparing the tailcone parts for assembly.  As usual this involves dimpling, washing, scuffing, brightening, alodining and priming parts. Because of the variety of shapes and sizes of tailcone elements, multiple batches over different weekends were needed.  This is tedious, hot work, especially when temperatures outside are near 100 degrees! However, the outcome is worth the effort.

Oddly the right side skin needs to have a triangular shaped piece removed, while the left side stays intact.  I am not sure the reason, as the plans for joining the tailcone to the forward fuselage section will only come when the quickbuild kit arrives.

 

 

 

Some parts needed to be countersunk prior to prepping.

 

 

 

 

Others are dimpled beforehand.

 

 

 

 

Washing and scuffing …

 

 

 

 

Brightening …

 

 

 

 

Alodine the small parts …

 

 

 

 

The product of one weekend’s work.

 

 

 

 

Brightened stiffeners and longerons go in the long tank, come out alodined.

 

 

 

 

The product of another weekend’s work.

 

 

 

 

Here the stiffeners, longerons, and small parts are ready for assembly.  One more weekend is needed to prime all the skins.

 

 

 

 

Mid-June and this is the third straight weekend prepping tailcone parts.  Unlike alodine treatment for the small parts, I use Pre-Kote to treat the large skin surfaces while scuffing. After drying, they are ready for a primer application within 24 hours.  I used lint-free shop cloths and Rita’s hair dryer to make sure no moisture remained on the surface.

 

 

After hanging in the shed I also wiped the surfaces with PPG 303 Degreaser for good measure.  Finally two thin coats of DP40LF were applied.

Tailcone Fitting – Part 2b

All the fitting and match drilling of skins and external parts has been completed.  Now for deconstructing in preparation for corrosion protection and priming.

Eric and I drilled out the final frame holes on the aft-most frames.  This completed the match drilling process.

 

 

 

 

After removing the upper skins, the plans call for fitting and drilling the shoulder harness attachment brackets to the longerons.  The left photos shows the bracket measured and clamped into place.  The right photo has the #12 holes drilled out.

 

 

Access panels are then fitted and drilled for nut  plates.

 

 

 

 

Strange, but the right side triangular tab needs to be removed before riveting the skin to the tailcone.  Here the cut-line is drawn with a straightedge between the baggage bulkhead tabs and the flat face.

 

 

 

Eventually I would like a fresh air supply to an aftermarket overhead console (probably will be from AeroSport Products).  I purchased the NACA ducts for $6.50 each from Van’s, by far the cheapest source for this ducts.  Aircraft Spruce only had carbon fiber units for $100! Ouch.  This photo is a mock-up template on construction paper.  After our vacation trip to Germany, I will be measuring for the hole location, then cutting the skins to match.

Tailcone Fitting – Part 2a

After a week on business travel, I returned to finish fitting the skins, stiffeners, longerons, aft deck, and doublers.

Here drilling the aft top skin to the stiffeners.

 

 

 

 

Fluting the frames is required to get a smooth curve on the skins.

 

 

 

 

Walking the forward top skin to the frames.  This time I started at the top and moved downward.

 

 

 

Rita says it looks like a porcupine. I think it looks great.

 

 

 

 

Fully enclosed tail section!

 

 

 

 

Next day I drilled and clecoed all the aft deck parts.

 

 

 

 

The horizontal stabilizer attachment points are reinforced with 3-4 extra pieces of fabricated aluminum.  This photo from above shows the alignments along the center line.

 

 

 

Close-up of the clamped, then final attachment brackets.

 

 

 

 

Here is the aft deck fully drilled and clecoed.

 

Tailcone Fitting – Part 2

This week was about making and fitting the two longerons, plus continuing the alignment of skins.

First two 98 1/8″ longerons must be cut to length, and drilled properly from a long piece of AA125-3/4×3/4 angle aluminum. This is the easy part.  The real pucker factor is placing in a vise, then hitting the pre-stressed piece with a rubber hammer until a 2degree bend is achieved. Any over-hit means the piece will be stressed wrong. Because the bend mates to the aft deck precisely where the horizontal stabilizer attaches to the tailcone, getting it right is essential.  Despite my concerns, the bends turned out according to plans. (sorry no picture of the process).

 

Prepping a few additional parts is needed before actually fitting the longerons to the tailcone shell.

 

 

 

 

Longerons are fitted, aligned and match drilled to 3/32″.  After all the skins are attached, these same holes will later be drilled out with a #40 bit and countersunk. Getting the holes perpendicular to the skin surface is very important to prevent ’round over’ of the rivets at a later stage.

 

 

This close-up shows the left side longeron drilled and clecoed into position. The two pieces sticking straight up through the aft deck are the main attachment points for the horizontal stabilizer.

 

 

 

Here the rear frame is clecoed to the aft deck, and the middle stiffener is clamped into place.

 

 

 

 

The upper aft skin comes from the factory as a flat piece. The plans indicate clecoe one side and walk towards the other side bending and applying clecoes along the way. The idea is provide a gradual stress application and final bend to the skin metal.

 

 

 

The upper aft skin is fully fitted into place.  I thought the tail was rigid before, but WOW – after the longerons and upper skins are installed the whole unit is rock solid. This inspires a great deal more confidence about the overall strength of the tail section.

Tailcone Fitting – Part 1

After months of working on shop/logistics and dealing with some health problems, I finally got back to working on real plane parts.

Lining up the stiffeners, bulkheads and skins can be an interesting proposition by yourself.  Fortunately Rita and Peter were available to help on the most demanding sections.

 

 

 

The plans call for hanging the pieces from sawhorses, but I found placing the pan on the workbenches covered by carpet with clecoes from the inside to be a more comfortable arrangement.  Here clecoes are being applied after #40 match drilling the stiffeners and bulkheads.

 

 

A few shot from inside looking backwards from where the rear seat would be.  It is amazing how each of these fragile parts when fastened together properly can be so strong. With the stiffeners in place, the whole assembly is quite rigid.

 

 

 

The left picture shows where the rudder stop bracket is attached inside the final tailcone section.  The right shows the final bulkhead (where the tie-down bracket is on the lower inside).

CP214 Riveter Rebuilds

Rich bought two old Chicago Pneumatic riveters from Raybourn Thompson as part of his shop liquidation sale.  New ones cost $700-1000 each, but Rich got the pair for $165.  The tandem unit worked poorly, the single piston model did not function at all.  I contemplated sending these out for repair, but read online somewhere that “if you can build an RV10, you can repair these yourself”.  I took that advice and disassembled everything, then looked for places to get parts.  On a tip from my technical counsellor, I contacted Bob Avery at Avery Tools.  After many email exchanges with his advice and guidance, about $250 in parts were obtained and the rebuild began.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Workshop and Tools

Over the first two weeks in 2015 Rich came from Texas with a Trooper full of wonderful old tools.  The crown jewels included a Delta-Rockwell 28-207 bandsaw (based on a model 890 and made in Tupelo, MS in 1953), a Delta 17-900 drill press, belt sander, grinder, scroll saw, and numerous drill vises, clamps, and jigs.  We spend most of the two weeks dis-assembling, cleaning, lubricating, and reconfiguring.  Here are a series of photos showing the work in the new shop location.

The old rubber tires looked near original.  Nice, but not very effective these days.

 

 

 

 

Between Rich and I we acquired numerous rebuild parts. Most of them came from Iturra Design.  It is quite interesting that almost all the parts (besides the cast iron pieces) can be had new for this machine.

 

 

Removing, cleaning, and putting new tires on the wheels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New ceramic, from a company literally called SpaceAge Technology).

 

 

 

 

After using the bandsaw a few times, I went ahead with ordering replacement bearings, shims,  and some additional parts.  Started the rebuild process again.

 

 

 

Remove the table and dis-assemble the adjustment mechanism.

 

 

 

 

Clean and reassemble the table adjustment mechanisms.

 

 

 

 

Table and saw blade reinstalled.  Notice the new cranks and bolts on the trunnions, courtesy of Rich.

 

 

 

 

Remove the old bearings. Note the retaining clips on the upper wheel.

 

 

 

 

Lower bearing installed on drive side.

 

 

 

 

Lower bearing on wheel side partially, then fully installed.

 

 

 

 

 Here is the new wheel brush installed on the lower guard.  I replaced the 39″ v-belt with one 35″ long.  Why – because there was absolutely no tension adjustment with the longer belt – the motor rested directly on the mounting plate.  I used 3/8″ x 4″ bolts to elevate the motor slightly and used multiple nuts for final height/tension adjustment.  This configuration seems to work well.

 

Q-bond was used to repair the original bakelite light shade. This completes the refurbishment process for the time being. With the cleaning, new parts and bearings, the saw runs very smoothly.

 

 

 

DRILL PRESS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We measured the runout on this machine at less than 0.001″ of an inch right off his truck. Outstanding!  I will replace belts, a few missing set screws, a broken belt-tensioning eccentric lever, and fix the table adjusting crank, but overall the machine works great.  The photos above show it in action on some tail section bulkheads, and Rich using a Forstner bit to make some ‘furniture-quality’ floor stands.

 

SECOND REBUILD

After receiving the parts, I proceeded to drill out the broken bolt on the table adjusting crank.  The over-sized hole was then tapped for a M10 metric bolt.  This arrangement seems to work well.

 

 

 

The top pulleys and belt housing were removed to clean the motor adjustment pins.  After a good greasing, these were reinstall on the cast iron head. A replacement power switch faceplate is added after the wiring is put back in place.

 

 

Final adjustments to the faceplate and ready for power on.

 

 

 

 

I broke the original retaining bolt off during the initial cleanup.  After repeated attempts to back out the broken bolt shaft, I finally purchased a left-handed cobalt drill.  This worked well, but the bolt did not back out on its own.  Tapping the final hole with an M10-1.5 set I had from Germany, then filling with an appropriate metric set screw did the trick.

 

 

The addition of a Peachtree PW929 drill press laser for $40 rounds out the second rebuild.

 

 

 

 

The laser functions on the principle that two intersecting planes form a straight line.  By adjusting the two laser heads vertically with the spindle shaft and correcting for angle should provide a clear cross indicator for a drill center at any depth.  Very cool on the science side, plus it makes positioning your drill piece extremely fast and easy. I would say this is good value for the price. We’ll see how robust it is as time goes by.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VISE and SANDER (January 31, 2015)

I bought an old Wilton 4″ vise on Craigslist for $25 a few weeks ago.  As show here, the jaw inserts were missing, with the broken fastening screws left in the faces.  A 5/32″ left-handed, cobalt was used to drill them out.  Fortunately all four screws backed out on their own during the drillout process.  Luck will beat skill most times!

 

 

Here is the vise after cleaning and greasing.  I will mount on a 2″x8″ board, and should be able to clamp down to the bench surfaces as needed. Replacements faces are on order, so it should work good as new.

 

 

(February 7) I used 1/4″ lag screws to fasten to the board.  Overall result – rock solid.

 

 

 

 

Rich built another quality base for the Craftsman sander and grinder he brought from Texas.  Here both are shown mounted on the base.  The sander was cleaned and new 5″ disc / 1″ x 15″ belt were added.

 

 

 

WORKBENCH BASE

Custom base now brings all the bench surfaces to a uniform 36-3/4″ above the floor.  This is the same height for my EAA benches, and the DRDT-2 dimpling machine.

Tail Cone Staging

The tailcone has the most parts of any section built so far. This means more filing, sanding, scotchbriting and preping before assembly.

The obligatory staging shot with vinyl removed.

 

 

 

 

Initial fitting.  This was about 30 hours after starting all the metal  prep on frames and bulk heads.  I have not even started on the skins or the miscellaneous other parts.

 

 

 

 

Section where bellcrank will be housed.

 

 

 

 

One lower skin is attached for stability. This is actually starting to look like an airplane!  Much more metal prep and fitting before any match drilling is started.

Elevator Assembly (2)

This week saw final riveting on the hinges, trailing edges, rib tips, and bending the leading edges.

A special modification to a standard bucking bar was made with a grinder and round file. The depression in the bucking bar face exactly matches the trim tab hinges.  This configuration allow bucking the hinge rivets without smashing the hinge assembly itself.  The bar worked well and the results look good.

 

 

Here is how the modifed bar fits under the hinge to access the rivet for bucking.

 

 

 

 

The final product looks good.

 

 

 

 

Next came backriveting the trailing edge.  This process was the same as for the rudder, with the exception that all the manufactured heads are on the top skin (no altering top and bottom).  I was able to do this by myself.  Again the results look good.

 

 

 

The outcome on upper and lower edges.

 

 

 

 

Here the sheer clips are being pop riveted into place.

 

 

 

 

After rolling the leading edge of the right elevator with Rich’s help, we cleco the two halves together.  We were only able to complete the left side with the time available today, but the final work on the right side will be done in a day or two.  More photos of the final product will be added later.

 

 

 

The week of November 24 (Thanksgiving Holiday) I spent time with Eric finishing up all elements of the elevator build.

After rolling edges, priming the surface to be covered was the next order of business.

 

 

 

 

Closeup of the final product before and after pop rivets.

 

 

 

 

The static wick nut plates install on the lower skin at the tip ribs.

 

 

 

 

Tip rib counterweights installed.

 

 

 

 

End results! They look good at a distance, but I really struggled through the elevators (see previous posts).  Now on to the tail cone section.

 

 

 

 

 

Elevator (Bonding)

After many weeks of redoing the elevator trim tabs, adhesive bonding of the trailing edges and foam ribs was in order.  Rich came over to lend an extra pair of hands during the process.

Bending the angled trim tabs was accomplished with a simple red oak board cut to a 45 degree angle, then clamped to the angle iron jig.

 

 

 

Here the trim tab is sandwiched between two pieces of angle iron for bending the front part of the lower skin to 15 degrees.

 

 

 

 

A 12″ back rivet set was used with a standard backing plate to attach the lower portion of the trim tab spars.

 

 

 

 

Here is how the first set of trim tab horn rivets appear. More on the trim tabs later.

 

 

 

 

Cherry Max 3213-4-3 structural rivets were used to replace the simple LP4-3 called out in the plans. Discussions with my technical counseler and an A+P mechanic indicated structural rivets can always be substituted for lower strength rivets of the same size. However, Cherry Max brand rivets are more expensive (about 63 cents apiece).

 

 

On to the trailing edges – here the Van’s ProSeal equivalent is being applied initial application from with a caulking gun.  I later used a wooden popsicle stick to smooth out to ensure complete coverage.

 

 

 

This shows the foam rib attached to the rear spar.

 

 

 

 

Smoothing out the  bonding adhesive, getting ready to insert the trailing edge.

 

 

 

 

The trailing edge is clecoed to the angle iron jig about every 7th hole.  In between are wooden clothes pins, then comes a 2×4 with weights to hold the skins against the freshly bonded foam ribs.

 

 

 

The trim tabs were also bonded.  This photo shows them in the wooden jigs holding the skins against their bonded foam ribs.

 

 

 

 

DONE.  Now to let the adhesive cure for a few days before starting the final riveting steps.