VS Upper Rib Doubler

I spent some time this week going back to major parts of the vertical stabilizer and rudder to smooth the edges much better than my original efforts. Last week my technical advisor had shown me how edges should look. In retrospect a rather poor job had been done on final rounding my parts with the Scotchbrite wheel.  Fortunately, none of these parts have been riveted together.  The results now look much better.

The other activity this week was fabricating a rib doubler for the uppermost rib on the vertical stabilizer.  I want to use 3/4″ plastic conduit obtained from Van’s to feed wire for either a VOR antenna, an anti-collision LED beacon, or both to the top of VS.  The conduit can be held in-place with the appropriate sized hole drilled with a unibit.  However this would weaken the spar web, so a doubler is needed.  In addition, I wanted to use the #10 screw nut plate trick, ala the bonding straps, to allow for later installation of any electrical equipment.

IMGP3837A scrap piece of sheet aluminum is measured out for the rib doubler.  This picture shows the position of the nut plates, the unibit to be used for the 3/4″ hole and a practice piece of plastic conduit.

 

 

 

IMGP3842Here is the doubler rough cut for  insertion into the upper VS rib.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3849On the left is the fabricated doubler with all the holes drilled and deburred.  I countersank the nut plate lobe holes for flush riveting with an ‘oops’ rivet.  I wanted this to be flush for flexibility of later installations.

On the right is a practice piece with the plastic conduit inserted into the 3/4″ hole.  As can be see here, the conduit has alternating bands of 3/4″ and 7/8″ diameter sections.  This will allow the conduit to be threaded through the unibit hole and self-attach to the rib doubler. Nice and neat.

The lower VS ribs do not need this treatment, as special Panduit wire ties will be attached to the already present lightning holes.

HS Preparation – cont.

This week I finished the deburr and Scotchbrite treatment of most horizontal stabilizer parts. In addition, I ordered a 2hp, 7.2 cfm Sears Professional air compressor, a Bosch JS470E hand jig saw, and the final set of parts/accessories for priming.

IMGP3796With earlier work on smoothing edges, I had tried various combinations of Dremel sanding bits, 400 grit Emory cloth, and Vixen files.  The best results so far are obtained using a fine bastard file on the really rough sections, followed with a very fine needle file, then a deburr tool to round over the sharp corners and finally smoothing on a 6″ Scotchbrite wheel mounted in the drill press. It takes quite some time per piece, but the results are very good.

 

 

IMGP3801This photo shows me using a medium file to shape the end of a HS spar cap rough trimmed with a band saw.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3798The deburr tool run 2-3 times over the edge of the spar cap will take off the sharpest corners (which are the result of Van’s manufacturing process of high-pressure water jet cutting, then bending in special jigs at the factory). Here the spar cap is clamped to the angle iron jig I originally made to hold the rudder trailing edge section.  This jig has been handy for a number of other operations as well.

 

 

 

IMGP3806My EAA technical counselor, Terry Gardner, was kind enough to spend an evening in his shop with me producing the HS attachment brackets from raw angle aluminum stock.  An earlier post showed my rough measurements, Terry was able with his Bridgeport milling machine to achieve 0.0025 or better tolerances on all the holes.  On the left is the final milled piece coated with the blue dye used for accurate scribing, the right bracket has been cleaned and polished.  These are results I could never have achieved by myself with hand tools. Thanks Terry!

HS Preparation – cont.

Spent about 7 hours this week deburring the ribs on the horizontal stabilizer.  This is tedious, but necessary work.

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HS Part Mods

In addition to the start of deburring all the horizontal stabilizer parts, I have also begun marking those pieces to be trimmed or created from angle aluminum.

IMGP3775Two of the spar ribs require parts of the tabs to be removed.  Here the particular portions are noted with a Sharpie.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3790Manufacturing two attachment brackets from 2″ x 2.5″ angle aluminum is going to be a real challenge.  I do not have precision equipment to get the holes drilled to the tolerances laid out in the plans.  I will probably ask my technical counselor on some much needed advice before moving forward.

 

 

 

IMGP3781Here is my markup of the angle aluminum used for the attachment brackets.

Paint Schemes

The final paint scheme for the plane is a long way in the future. However I did want some vision of how it might look, plus have plenty of time to decide with Rita on colors and layout.  A software package called Model Airplane Color Builder was purchased to help with the visualization. Here is one of the default bitmap files from the application.

RV10-paint01

HS Preparation

This weekend I started organizing the pieces for the horizontal stabilizer.  This included laying out most of the metal parts, removing vinyl, and starting the deburr process. This section has the most elements, so metal preparation for all the ribs, doublers, and spars will take some time.

IMGP3762Horizontal stabilizer pieces ready to start preparing.

 

 

 

 

This is the third section I have started without setting a single rivet.  Right now I have all the logistics ready for alodining for corrosion protection, but do not yet have a suitable air compressor for priming.  The shed is almost ready to go now that the paint booth filter has arrived.  I just need to setup the exhaust fan configuration prior to buying the compressor. (a post on the shed configuration will come later).

Rudder – Countersinks

The trailing edge of the rudder has a very thin wedge of AEX sandwiched between the left and right skins.  This fragile piece of metal has to be well secured during the countersink operation making ready for the double-sided rivets eventually holding everything together. Using the angle iron jig prepared earlier, I drilled #40 holes through the iron about every 7th hole using the AEX piece as a template.  Clecoes were then used to clamp down the trailing edge for processing with a micro-stop countersink.

IMGP3758The two middle holes indicated with the Sharpie lines in the middle are #30 in size – big enough to allow the guide portion of the countersink bit to protrude through the trailing edge, but small enough to still provide solid backing.  The overall result was very good.  A few finished holes can be seen on the right.

Rudder – Bonding Strap Background

Earlier I had decided on the bonding strap approach based on forum posts and recommendations from other builders.  After actually drilling the vertical stabilizer and rudder, I came across specific instructions in an FAA document – Advisory Circulat AC43.13 – 1B/2B page 11-77.  Turns out what I did was exactly as required by this publication, once again proving luck will beat skill on most occasions.

ac43-13-11-77ac43-13-11-77 Because I already have tinned copper braid for the strap, the lower material listing is the one to follow. Only “Washer B” made from aluminum alloy is not in my inventory, I have all the rest.  A quick order to Aircraft Spruce can quickly resolve that issue.

 

Rudder – Bonding Straps

Eric and I disassembled the rudder today.  First up was deburr everything and dimple the skins.  After this I went ahead with measuring and drilling the attachment points for the bonding straps on both the vertical stabilizer and rudder spars.  The process was the same described in earlier posts for the static wicks.

IMGP3728The swivel handle with a #40 countersink bit attached goes much faster and just as cleanly as twirling with my fingers.  It is also much easier on hands and forearms. We dimpled both rudder skins after this step.

 

 

 

IMGP3742This is a mock-up of how the nut plate for the bonding strap will look on the backside of the rudder.

 

 

 

 

IMGP3741I wanted the bonding strap in the middle hinge location of the vertical stabilizer, close to the upper bracket of the pair – and horizontally aligned with its opposite partner on the rudder. This mock-up shows how close to the bracket I was able to place the nut plate.  The horizontal alignment also turned out near perfect.

 

 

IMGP3745This is how the final configuration should look.  The nut plate jig works great!  After so much time doing research and thinking about how to make these modifications, I am very pleased with the outcome.

 

 

 

 

Rudder – Static Wicks

I performed my first modification to the plans today by drilling attachment holes for the static wicks. Based on the manufacturer suggestions , they should be placed on the outer edges and most rear portions of the plane to properly dissipate an electrical charge. Using a pair about 12 inches apart is also recommended. The rudder on the RV10 has two rib stiffeners at the top almost exactly configured for this application.

The modification requires measuring, drilling and countersinking holes for nut plates to secure the static wicks.  There are special jigs available for different sized screws, so I bought one (~$35) for 10# screws to fit the Dayton Gardner 16165 wicks.  Because the skin and stiffener on the rudder are only a combined .050″ thick, I started the main hole with a #40 drill, then progressively got bigger (#30, #21, #17, #12, #10) until the final hole diameter was reached.  This was a bit tedious, but kept the thin skins from bending or tearing. The jig then is used to exactly align the attachment rivet holes.  Since holding the wick in place is not considered structural, an ‘oops’ rivet with a smaller than normal manufactured head will be used to keep the countersink small and shallow (more on ‘oops’ rivets in later posts).

The hardware list for the static wicks and bond straps:
MS21078-3 two lug elastic insert anchor nut
MS21080-3 one lug elastic insert anchor nut
MS35207 machine screws (various lengths will be used)

IMGP3705Here using the #10 nut plate jig to position the rivet holes relative to the main screw holes. The jig essentially provides a perfect fit every time. I cannot imagine spacing the three holes properly without that tool.

 

 

 

IMGP3706Final drilled holes for the nut plates with plastic inserts.  Notice the three hole design on the left compared to the single lobe method on the right.

 

 

 

IMGP3716This picture shows the decreasing headroom moving r-l towards the trailing edge. Notice why the use to the one lug anchor plate is needed here.

 

 

 

IMGP3727The attached holes have been hand countersunk with an ‘oops’ rivet head used to check depth. This picture shows approximately how it will look when the final riveting is completed.

 

 

 

IMGP3714Dry fit of the Dayton Gardner static wick on the uppermost rudder rib. The result looks good.