Category Archives: Rv-10 Build Project

Wingtips / Lights (1)

My first foray into fiberglass is modifying the wingtips to accept special inserts for the AeroLED VX landing lights and Pulsar PS position/strobe lights.

imgp6848imgp6852Measure twice…

 

 

 

 

imgp6854Cut once, twice, three times…

 

 

 

 

imgp6857imgp6856Inserts rough fit in the new openings.

 

 

 

 

imgp6863imgp6865Layout of West resin system components.

 

 

 

 

imgp6874imgp6885imgp6884Mix, and brush on both surfaces.

 

 

 

 

imgp6890imgp6894Position insert and cleco together.

 

 

 

 

imgp6897imgp6903Fill inside edge with remaining resin to ease the sharp angle (will help later when fiberglass cloth is applied). Let this combination dry overnight.

 

 

 

imgp6907Now add three layers of fiberglass cloth on the inside to reinforce the insert seams. Let this cure overnight.

 

 

 

 

imgp6910Fill in the outside gaps, let cure overnight, then sand roughly smooth.

 

 

 

 

imgp6912imgp6914Position template, drill adjustment holes and rough fit the taped landing light lens to the initial opening. Sand, sand and more sand until lens fits perfectly in the opening with sufficient clearance for later alignments with airplane axis.

 

 

 

imgp6915Rough fit is done, need some additional build-up in certain areas. This will be done later.

 

 

 

 

imgp6920imgp6934Place pivot point and drill fastening holes.

 

 

 

 

imgp6933imgp6937The internal section of the pivot is stuffed with a cotton plug. Use E6000 structural adhesive to hold the pivot point, plus add pop rivets for additional stability. The cotton keeps the adhesive from filling the pivot cavity.

 

 

 

imgp7027Build-up needed, as the dimensions of the fiberglass inserts obtained from AeroLED is very poor.  The left side is a good 1/4″ bigger top-bottom and 1/4″ left-right compared to the other side.

 

 

 

 

imgp6922imgp6927Measure the lexan lens for rough cutting. Use a dremel tool for approximate size, then hand sand to closer dimensions. Electrical tape is applied around the edges to prevent scratching during the fit process.

 

 

 

imgp7031The fit process took a long time with hand sanding.  The edges still protruded a bit from the wing surface.

 

 

 

 

imgp7033imgp7034AWLFAIR 8020 resin and AWLFAIR 7007 red hardener are 1:1 mixed together to create a creamy fairing compound. Tape covers the entire lens.

 

 

 

imgp7035Coat number one is applied to the fitted lens.

 

 

 

 

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imgp6930An additional job for the week is rounding over some cable fairings.  A dime was perfectly sized for measuring the distances.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Baggage Area (3)

After a week traveling overseas on business followed by a week at AirVenture 2016, I finally got back to the actual building process.  During the off period I had ordered #2 Tefzel wire for three battery cables running from behind the baggage area to the firewall.  Two were for hot leads for the dual battery, dual alternator configuration I am building and one for a solid ground lead.  My concern before final riveting the left seat and baggage floors was being unable to pull the heavy/stiff wire through the already installed black plastic conduit (see previous posts on these).  So after receiving the wire, a test pull was in order.

IMGP6838A cheap ($20) wire grip was purchased from Amazon for this test. Though inexpensive, this one has an end swivel to help guide the head assembly through the conduit.  This picture shows beginning to thread the wire mesh from the grip onto the #2 Tefzel wire. Eventually about 2″ overlap was achieved.

 

 

 

IMGP6840No pictures are available from the test pull, but the Tefzel went through the conduit with no problems. Now having peace of mind about cable runs, I proceeded to use a pneumatic puller to set the rear floor and baggage compartment. Here all the central pop rivets are in place.

 

 

 

IMGP6841This view show all the edge rivets and nut plates squeezed along the main tunnel.  The baggage frames and support angles are clecoed in place ready for Eric’s availability to drive while I buck. There some final adjustments to the baggage door itself I want to complete before final assembly of the frames.

 

 

 

IMGP6844The right side wire cover is also clecoed in place waiting for final installation.  Next up on the to-do list is deburr and prep the tunnel covers.

Rear Wire Runs (3)

Painting the interior last week has unlocked a number of different activities which can now be undertaken.  The Fourth of July 2016 weekend was used for installing things which have been prepped and staged for quite a while.  The sequence of activities was based on time of day (heat in shop), and whether solo work was possible or another set of hands was needed.

IMGP6699A few miscellaneous parts were also painted last week.  Here the outer baggage door panel is riveted onto the frame.  Eric helped by driving from the exterior side, while I bucked from the inside.

 

 

 

IMGP6698IMGP6701Here are two different perspectives of the baggage door from the inside. The next step is fit 1″ sound damping insulation, then pop rivet the inner panel to the frame.  Last step will be install the door lock/latch, but this will be after the cabin door hardware is acquired.

 

 

IMGP6703Saturday morning saw foam soundproofing material installed with contact cement. Rich had cut these several months ago on a previous visit.  The directions say let sit for 15 minutes before bonding the two surfaces, but this caused instant adhesion between the parts and some mis-aligned panels until I figured it out.  For this foam material/ cement combination the best approach is put a thin coat on the plane, followed quickly by the foam – then immediately fit together.  This leaves the contact cement just a bit slippery and able to slide just a little, enough to help position the panels better.

 

IMGP6702IMGP6705Here are views for the side panels and underneath the rear floor panel. All is not pretty, but not to worry.  All the foam installed so far is covered by another interior panel and will not be visible.  I hope the sound-dampening effect proves worth the effort involved.

 

 

IMGP6709Okay, interior painted and foam applied.  Now fit the rear seat panels and rivet in place.  The photo shows thin plastic cutting boards ($8 for 5 sheets from Amazon) used to protect the side wells from being scratched by the panel on insert.  This worked great and no damage was done.

 

 

IMGP6711IMGP6712Floor panel is clecoed into place, then the floors pop riveted to the ribs underneath.  I used a pneumatic riveter borrowed from Tal for the cheap ones with easy access.  More expensive, but delightfully easy to use, CherryMAX CR3213-04-02 rivets were installed in the difficult corners with the offset head on the 704B riveter.

 

 

IMGP6718IMGP6720The left picture shows the completed floor/rib rivets, while the right picture shows the fully completed effort. The plastic cutting sheets were used to protect the floor as the side rivets were installed.

 

 

IMGP6737IMGP6739Floor panels complete, now cut and install MS21266 nylon edging grommet material on the bulkheads where power wires, antennas, and static tubes will be run.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6721The main event – installing the 5/8″ ID black conduit.  The prepared holes in the seat panel are first threaded with conduit.

 

 

 

IMGP6726IMGP6728Then the conduit is run through the interior rib, and out the lightning hole under the baggage floor.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6734IMGP6736The conduit is then fastened to anchor points with 0.010″ fiberglass cable lace.  Again not the prettiest outcome, but seems to hold everything together quite well.

 

 

 

IMGP6742Using the packing peanut / fishing line / suction method, 2mm paracord is pulled through the installed conduit and tied to the bulkheads. These cords will later be used for pulling wires under the rear seat and under the baggage compartment.  Once the seat panels are riveted in-place, no more access will be available.

 

 

IMGP6741Finally for this week, I started hand riveting the side floor angles.  Once these are done, the baggage floor can be permanently attached.

Interior Paint (1)

The entire week was used to prepare for the first interior paint in the cockpit.  Materials were transported from the garden shed, my usual paintbooth, to the shop.  These included air compressor, paint gun, supplies, hoses, fans, filters, and barrier walls. Quite a logistics challenge. Eric and I got up Saturday at 5:00am to beat the oppressive heat which comes later in the day. Temperature in the shop was a comfortable 74F in the shop before the sun came up.

IMGP6674A rudimentary paint booth is constructed of large cardboard sheets and thin plywood paneling.  This is not intended for long term use, just enough to keep paint/fumes fairly contained on the side.

 

 

IMGP6678IMGP6687Fans/filters placed in the tail and on the plywood barrier are just enough to keep a gentle air flow from back to front, then out the shop door.  This concept, while looking very crude in the photos, worked extremely well in practice.

 

 

IMGP6681IMGP6686IMGP6690The basic process getting ready to shoot remains the same:  suit up, shake and mix well. Then pucker and pull the trigger.

 

 

IMGP6691IMGP6692Now for the results – baggage door and rear seat areas. Only those visible areas are painted. The remaining parts are covered by side or floor panels.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6693IMGP6694Firewall and side panels.  Some areas here are perhaps a bit thin on paint, but no worries about appearance, as these sections will be covered with soundproofing material and probably panels as well.

 

 

IMGP6695IMGP6696Front floorboards and forward seating areas.

 

 

 

 

I used PPG Concept paint coded DCC in Boeing grey (BAC707).  This is a three part system with paint, reducer and hardener. This stuff is fantastically hard, flows together when applied properly, and covers very well. Any runs can be sanded and resprayed for a smooth finish .  The downsides to this material are its high expense and caution must be taken for personal safety. The poly-isocyanates in the hardener are toxic and exposure must be avoided. Fortunately I have the HobbyAir breathing system, safety glasses, gloves and professional paints suits for protection.

Next steps are install the sound dampening material, run the electrical conduit under floor boards, then rivet all the floor panels in place. I may not do another round of painting, as the overall results for the first round were pretty good.

 

COM2 Antenna Plate (2)

This week saw another set of clean-up activities – things started in the past, but finally with time to address.  Primary among these was final attachment of the COM2 antenna plate to the upper tailcone skin.

IMGP6649Step one is Pro-Seal around the major antenna holes and fasten tightly with clecoes.  After drying overnight, the excess sealing material was removed and dimples cleaned out ready for riveting.

 

 

 

IMGP6659I decided to back rivet all locations with a 4″x6″ plate obtained from Cleveland Tools for this purpose.  To avoid the previously committed sin of slipping off the plate during riveting, this time I line up the plate in a known position by marking the antenna holes with a black Sharpie.  By always keeping the holes aligned, I was assured plate would always be under the rivet with plenty of space on either side.

 

 

IMGP6664The outcome looks good. A bit of Scotchbrite preps the skin to accept priming.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6670The backside of the antenna plate and the newly deburred holes in the baggage bulkhead are primed with SEM self-etching primer to cover any bare spots.

 

 

 

 

Next up was attaching the two static ports (one left and one right) to the rear tailcone skins.  Wooden jigs were made to clamp the ports in  position while the Pro-Seal drys.  Some folks use rivets and/or the Pro-Seal, but my experience is the Pro-Seal should be strong enough to hold by itself.

IMGP6644IMGP6646Front and back photos of the static ports while the Pro-Seal drys.

 

 

 

 

The baggage door parts were primed and painted in earlier posts.  The outer frame and hinges were then riveted together for proper alignment.  With the inner and outer panels cloeced into place, the frame now has the appropriate configuration and rigidity to final fit the outer panel to the baggage door opening in the fuselage side skins.  A gap of about 1/8″ all around is desired to allow a tight fit, but enough room to close freely.

IMGP6666Here the outer edge of the bottom and right sides are marked with a Sharpie to final dimensions. The standard hand file and Scotchbrite process was used to complete the shaping.

 

 

 

IMGP6667The inside surface of the outer panel is also primed with SEM self-etch. Next up for this piece is final paint with the BAC707 used for the cockpit interior.

 

 

 

Finally, I had purchased a $20 grinder from Craigslist earlier in the year.  It ran okay, but heated up quickly when in use.  I decided to replace the 6202-2RS bearings with a higher precision ABEC 3+ variety. Why – this is definitely overkill.  Well it only cost $10 for two of them, and I was curious whether it would make any difference.  In addition, the whole topic of bearing selection was a new and interesting topic for me to research.

IMGP6654To replace the bearings, the outer housings are removed with a pulley puller, then the bearings.  This leaves the raw shaft and stator with fan attachment.  The flaking insulation of the stator was removed, then sprayed with electrical insulation varnish.  Here is the cleaned shaft prior to treatment.

 

 

IMGP6655The shaft was placed on two V-blocks received from Rich at the estate sale.  The shaft was rotated slowly during the spray treatment.

 

 

 

IMGP6656Time for some more overkill.  Since I already had the shaft out, I decided to measure with my new test indicator and stand obtained on eBay for $12.50!  Nice price and the setup worked great.

 

 

 

IMGP6658The indicator itself is supposed to read 0.0005″ increments.  The outer portion of the shafts vary about 0.002-0.003″, not bad, but when multiplied by the diameter of the grinding wheels, the runout is quite visible on the wheel surfaces.  The deviation on the shaft between the bearings is about 0.010″.  These numbers don’t mean much as no adjustments were made to the shaft bend.  However I am trying to use this information to gain some experience on tolerances.  The overall outcome is a smoother running and cooler motor.

 

 

I then used the test indicator on my drill press chuck – almost not detectable, which means the unextended chuck is <0.0005″.  Outstanding, but the proper test of drill press runout is fully extend the quill and measure at the end of a 4″ machinist dowel.  Since my Delta 17-900 drill press does not have a quill stop, this will be a two-man job to measure at a later date.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sound Damping and More

This week saw a number of miscellaneous activities completed.  The main work involved spraying foam fire block material under the forward floor panels, mainly for sound damping purposes.  Other items included conduit tie-down locations and 2″ air vent hole punching.

IMGP6604IMGP6611I borrowed a specialized gun for Fomo products from my friend Tal.  An extension was fashioned with Tygon tubing to insert under the already fastened floor panels of the fuselage quickbuild kit.  The tubing is held in-place with two 5/8″ hose clamps.

 

 

IMGP6608IMGP6607This stuff expands rapidly and is very sticky.  I tried to cover large sections of the exterior surfaces for fear of getting this stuff all over.

 

 

 

IMGP6638IMGP6640Once out the the nozzle, the foam becomes unruly and difficult to place in the right areas.  Despite my best efforts to contain the stuff, it still wound up in undesired place.  Notice how much it grew right out of some holes.

 

 

IMGP6642IMGP6643After removing the tape and paper, the expanded foam coming out is visible in a few spaces.  The results from a sound perspective were very good.  Tapping on the floor panel results in only a dull thud – which should indicate the panel cavities are fully covered. Next up – final cleanup and get ready for interior paint!

 

Another action was finalize the conduit runs from the baggage area back to the tail section.  The right side run will be used for COM antenna and magnetometer, the left side for strobes.  The intention throughout the plane is use 0.100″ fiberglass cable lace instead of plastic tie wraps to secure conduits and wires.  This method is old school and requires more effort to install, but is much more flexible and should last forever.

IMGP6617This is the back of the baggage compartment where the black conduits run forward.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6619Looking backward from the baggage ares, the Panduit nylon stand-offs can be seen in the lightning holes on the right.  Also visible are the smaller nylon tie downs riveted to the stiffeners.

 

 

 

IMGP6623The final stand-off is being install in the rear bulkhead.

 

 

 

 

Finally, my technical counseller Terry Gardner has a #2 Diacro punch perfect for precision setting the two air supply holes needed in the baggage bulkhead.

IMGP6625IMGP6627The punch is setup and ready to roll…

 

 

 

 

IMGP6630IMGP6636Line it up, pucker, then pull the lever.  Within milli-seconds a perfect 1.9735″ hole  is positioned exactly in the bulkhead.

 

 

 

IMGP6637Not the best picture, but it does shows how well the punched hole and the 2″ SCAT tubing bracket align.  Just a bit of deburring the hole edges and then good-to-go.

 

 

Spar Reinforcement Brackets (2)

After two weeks in Germany on vacation and visiting relatives, I got back to a few miscellaneous activities previously started a while back.  The first was riveting the spar reinforcement brackets into place using the excellent tandem piston, alligator rivet squeezers Rich had obtained in an estate sale.  I had refurbished the squeezer itself months back (see past postings), but did not have the appropriately sized squeezer dies for -3 or -4 rivets.  I finally located a source in Florida called Delta International and ordered the right size for the job.  They arrived on Thursday and on Saturday riveting began.

I first used the AHARS platform as an off-plane test of the squeezer.  It takes a bit of adjusting with shims to get the pressure/offset between the heads correctly for a good squeeze depth.  Plus the stationary arm of the alligator jaws must be the one with the AN470 die.  Otherwise, the shop side of the rivet will be bent or smushed down incorrectly.  With a bit of practice on the platform parts, I was able to get consistently excellent results.  So glad I continued the advice never to do something for the first time directly on the plane.

IMGP6601IMGP6602Here is the squeezing operation in progress. The alligator jaws are perfect for going around the bulkhead angles from the side.  Not sure it would even be possible with a standard C-yoke configuration give the tight space laterally along the side walls.

 

 

IMGP6600Excellent. The results speak for themselves. I love putting old tools to good use.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6597I am now getting close to priming the insides of the plane.  Beforehand though, a last set of tunnel and seat covers needs to be prepped.  Here the vinyl covered parts are staged in their appropriate locations. What follows are the standard fit, drill, deburr, and prime steps.

Baggage Area (2)

This week was a clean-up of various activities – from front floor boards, to NACA vents, and fitting baggage panels.

IMGP6471IMGP6473The NACA holes were punched in the skin some time ago. In the meantime alodine, prime and ProSeal were applied to fastened to the plane. Now the final rivets are squeezed into place for the rear NACA vents.  I over-engineered the riveting solution here, but should look okay after prep and paint.

 

 

 

IMGP6476Here is the forward right NACA vent after ProSeal and clecoed into place.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6478Next was finish off the last of the forward floor panels using CherryMAX rivets and the G704H rivet gun using an offset head. Very nice.

 

 

 

IMGP6483The hole closest the outer skin is buried under the landing gear struct in the QuickBuild kit. I had to come at it from under the pilot’s seat with a hand pop-riveter (thus the backwards direction of the rivet). After many contortions, I finally got it seated and squeezed properly.

 

 

 

IMGP6487Now for fitting the fiberglass console near the baggage wall and marking a proper location for the air supply tubes.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6491IMGP6494The tricky part will be fitting the console under the fiberglass canopy, but with sufficient room for the (2) two inch air supply vents.  Plus the bulkhead should be reinforced somehow for structural purposes.  I first made a construction paper mock-up of the console end, then measured centerline on the bulkhead. I will have to think about this a while before any modifications are made.

 

Baggage Area (1)

After completion of business travel and a few weeks with some health issues, I finally got back in the swing of some consistent shop time.  In addition, Rich arrived for a two week stint of helping drive the process forward.

First up – alodine and prime a series of parts  previously  prepared (antenna brackets, reinforcement plates, AHARS platform, etc.) No pictures of this process are attached here, as the process has been covered in many other posts before. Now for some fitting and riveting.

IMGP6427The transponder and ADSB antenna backing plates were covered with a thin coat of ProSeal, then clecoed into place to cure over night.  Next day Rich drove the rivets while I bucked.  This photo just shows me positioning the plates.

 

 

 

IMGP6428IMGP6431In preparing for attaching the NACA plates, we found a few of the #4 screw holes were not reachable for dimpling with a regular yoke on the main squeezer. The improvisation here was use the C-frame, then hit the male dimple die with a hammer. While the fixture was a bit heavy for Eric to hold, the results were very good.

 

 

IMGP6434IMGP6438

Simultaneous to what Eric and I were doing, Rich was custom measuring 3/8″ closed cell foam for sound damping under the baggage and rear seat floors.  A $13 Black/Decker electric carving knife provided excellent results and was easy to use single-handed.

 

IMGP6443IMGP6445In between work on the plane, a few adjustments for tools were performed.  At left – Rich prepares the CherryMAX H704B riveter obtained from Raybourn’s estate sale. At right, I remove the J33 Arbor from a very nice Albrecht C130 chuck getting ready for installation in my refurbished Delta 17-900 drill press.

 

 

IMGP6442Oops! We tried using the CherryMAX riveter on some cheap pop rivets on the forward floor boards.  Big mistake.  I had tested round head pop rivets on some scrap stock with acceptable results, but failed to do the same test off-plane with countersunk rivets. The result – the CherryMAX is so powerful, it sheered off the countersink portion of the rivet and ingested the stem deep into the pull mechanism causing a jam.  Okay, take everything apart, but not so easy after using blue Loctite on the threads.  The double nut approach on the collet finally worked, so back in business again.

 

IMGP6440IMGP6444In the meantime, Rich continued on the floor panel prep and pulled most of the floor rivets by hand.  The offset head of the CherryMAX will be used with special rivets in hard to reach locations.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6441IMGP6448Here I am fitting the corrugated baggage wall (left) for match drilling into the baggage bulkhead (right) already installed with the tailcone attachment.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6451IMGP6453After drilling the appropriate holes are dimpled, and nutplates for #8 screws are riveted in place with 3/32 rivets.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6439Here Rich gets started on fitting the baggage door components together.  Next steps will be to make hinges and fit into the mid-skins for alignment and match drilling.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6465A successful two week visit from Rich with much “progress” achieved.  The term “work” should not be applied to this project anymore.

Rear Wire Runs (2)

This week focused on finishing the wire runs under the rear seat panel and finalizing the left inspection ports for the antenna/steps.

IMGP6377The edges of the rear seat panel are normally hidden behind a removable side cover.  This seemed like an excellent location for plunging conduit runs under the seat panel (which will eventually be permanently attached with pop rivets).

 

 

 

IMGP6379As with all additional hole in the plane, a reinforcement plate was fabricated the help hold the 5/8″ black corrugated conduit.  Here shows the plate clecoed in position.

 

 

 

IMGP6382This next series shows a repeat of the inspection port fabrication, this time on the left side near the baggage door opening.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6384IMGP6389Layout the backer described in previous posts. Drill some pilot holes, then nibble a rough opening followed by hand filing and scotchbrite smoothing.

 

 

 

IMGP6390IMGP6391First a picture of the rough outline, then showing smoothed, primed and ready for installation.

 

 

 

 

IMGP6393Voila.  This photo shows completed floor panels clecoed in position.  All the fabricated wire runs and inspection ports have been completed.  After months of working on customized elements for my particular configurations, I should soon be getting back to the standard plans.  Next up will be layouts of the baggage compartment panels.